Last Updated on April 9, 2025
Heat and drink to your heart’s content
When it comes to choosing a cuisine for dinner, I think there is one most of us will agree on and that is Indian. While I’m partial to an Indian takeaway on Sundays, I haven’t often experienced the luxury of Indian fine dining – what better way to do so than heading to Atul Kochhar’s Kanishka for the evening? With Kochhar being one of the UK’s most celebrated chefs and responsible for putting Indian cuisine on the Michelin Star map with Benares and Tamarind, I’m pleased to say it exceeded my already high expectations.
Located on Maddox Street, surrounded by London’s most opulent hotels and designer boutiques, we were met by beautifully grand, antique-style wooden doors that gave way to an ultra-sleek and modern interior. A refreshing change from traditional ‘stuffy’ Mayfair but unlike anything I had seen before. Spread over two floors, Kanishka effortlessly blends elegance and relaxation with monochrome flooring, cerulean walls punctuated by vibrant aqua-blue accents and an eye-catching twisted rope ceiling. Plush blue banquettes are complimented by grey leather chairs and white linen-clad tables, all offset by brightly lit lamps and a trendy bar that completes the chic, eccentric look.
On entering the restaurant, we immediately felt at ease as smooth jazz tinkled through the speakers and a cheerful hum of chatter coming from the tables which were nicely full but not crowded. Service here is impeccable and we quickly became friends with our waiters who made the entire experience all the more enjoyable. Before I knew it, I was sipping on a glass of chilled Champagne and my companion a Passionfruit Martini from the signature cocktails – a mix of vodka, Passoa, tamarind chutney, passion fruit, lemon and sugar syrup – a light, innovative twist on the classic that achieved the perfect level of sweetness.
The food menu here is mouth-wateringly good and explores the lesser-known flavours from the Seven Sisters region of north India with a nod to British favourites. The A La Carte menu is extensive, offering something for everyone, and there is a tasting menu priced at £85 for those wanting to splash out. Spoilt for choice, we entrusted our selections to our attentive waiter who, as it turns out, couldn’t have chosen better.
While waiting for our starters, we nibbled on some fancy poppadoms that were accompanied by two homemade chutneys, a zesty mixed berry and tangy gooseberry. Both were finger-licking good and got our taste buds salivating.
For starters, we tried Atul’s Chicken Tikka Pie with cumin-scented berry compote, which we were informed is a fan favourite. The presentation was artful, with a crisp exterior that when cut into, oozed warm and well-spiced chicken tikka that was complimented beautifully by the sweet compote. It is no exaggeration to call this dish pure genius.
Taking a moment to order more cocktails. I chose the Whisky and Ginger Sour – a dangerously delicious combination of smooth whiskey, boosted with a zippy bite of ginger syrup and tart lemon juice topped off with creamy egg white. Meanwhile, my companion enjoyed her tropical El Chapo Margarita – a concoction of Blanco tequila, Cointreau, oolong tea, grapefruit juice, lime, ginger and green chilli syrup.
Moving onto mains, our waiter arrived with an array of colourful dishes that were all packed with flavour, generously portioned and utterly delicious. First, we tried the Kashmiri Roganjosh, a melt-in-your-mouth braised lamb curry in an amazing onion and Kashmiri spiced sauce. Aromatic and rich in flavour, it was an absolute winner. Top tip, order the cooling cucumber raita to go alongside, especially if you’re not the most tolerant of spice.
No Indian feast seems whole without a vegetarian dish in my eyes, and at Kanishka, their signature creamy black dal undoubtedly fits the bill. I would even go as far as to say it stands its ground against Dishoom’s version, a personal favourite of mine! Paired with the tender chicken biryani, it was a match made in culinary heaven.
All the sides were delicious, but it is worth noting that they don’t skimp out on portions, to the point where they could easily make up a meal on their own. Fluffy saffron rice and a duo of crispy naan bread, one garlicky and the other loaded with chilli cheese were exceptional and totally necessary for mopping it all up with.
Stuffed to the brim with barely any room left, we shared the beautifully presented Varanasi Custard Apple Rabdi and Trio Of Chocolate for dessert. The Rabdi, a traditional Indian dessert was surprisingly light and refreshing, elevated by the layer of sweet dulce de leche espuma on top, while the delicately portioned trio of chocolate was to die for.
Kanishka is a vibrant and welcoming restaurant where friendly service, inventive dishes and a relaxed atmosphere combine for a thoroughly satisfying dining experience. Just try to exercise some restraint when ordering sides as you won’t be able to waddle out the door after your meal. (Speaking from experience)
Kanishka
17-19 Maddox St,
Mayfair
London W1S 2QH
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