Last Updated on June 24, 2024
Elegant and Impressive Indian Dining at Kanishka, Mayfair.
Do you love tasting menus as much as me? Tiny portions of food that take you on a journey, teasing your senses and awakening your palate…
When done well, as here at Kanishka, a tasting menu can be the best way to really understand the ethos and inspiration of the chef behind the restaurant, in this case, Atul Kochhar. Everything is carefully planned so that your taste buds are not overwhelmed early on and so that you gradually move from subtle flavours to richer, deep mouthfuls of deliciousness. And, it’s an excellent way to enjoy wine pairing too – with the wines carefully matched by the restaurant you benefit from their knowledge both of the cellar and of the dishes themselves.
Atul Kochhar is the first Indian celebrity chef I remember. Twice Michelin starred, first at Tamarind in 2001 and then at his own restaurant in Benares in 2002 when he gained a second star in 2007, Kanishka opened in 2019 in Maddox Street, taking over the venue that was 28-50. Kochhar has a number of other restaurants too; over the years we have reviewed Indian Essence in Petts Wood, Mathura in St James’s, Rizwas in Beaconsfield and Masalchi in Wembley. Each one is impressive and each one has a different emphasis.
Kanishka is, perhaps, closest to the original concept of Benares, with beautifully presented Indian dishes adapted minimally for western dining so that you’ll find the same careful spicing with different levels of heat, but perhaps enjoy a lower fat dishes with the kind of garnishes and plating you’d expect from any Michelin starred chef. While the rather splendid bar with its excellent cocktail menu, white table linen and elegant silvered glass tiling, together with short and longer tasting menus make this somewhere to come for a special occasion, there are also set lunch and dinner menus that would work well as a post-shopping treat. And of course, there’s a comprehensive a la carte and a whole range of special event menus (Diwali at the moment).
Our evening started with cocktails at the elegant bar. My companion’s blood orange negroni looked perfect, while I had a light raspberry and gin cocktail that was not on the menu but which the mixologist made up for me based on a desire for a lighter cocktail that wasn’t too sweet. We were fascinated by his ability to shake a cocktail mixer and stir simultaneously with his other hand. The cocktails were spot on too.
At our table, we enjoyed an amuse bouche of a tiny chickpea sponge with mustard seed and balsamic spheres that looked like caviar sitting on two chutneys – light mint and coriander, and tangy sweet-sour tamarind. Perfectly executed, this vegan mouthful was being served across the whole restaurant as a rather special way to start dinner. We dined from the shorter of the two tasting menus – each one has a vegan/vegetarian option for the same price. Our option included 6 courses – an ample feast for a weekday night.
Paneer came with a deep tandoor-smoked exterior and with gundruk chutney (made with a fermented leaf from Nepal) and jalpai jola asaar (Indian spiced olives). It was nicely paired for us with a glass of Patriarche Pere and Fils, Syrah Rose, France which was robust enough to carry the smokey paneer without overwhelming it.
Atul’s Chicken Tikka Pie is something I’ve tried before in a different iteration. Here it was served with a deliciously tangy cumin-scented berry compote which complemented the spicy tikka mix. I loved the flaky pastry shell and would happily enjoy this again too. Paired with Boschendal Pinotage from Western Cape, South Africa which had lovely aromas of black fruits and spice.
Grilled salmon came with a tiny aubergine baja and bilahir tok (tomato chutney) and malai curry (based on coconut milk) topped with more of those tiny spheres, here I believe with mint and coriander. The paired wine, Mas Settearchi, Fiano, Italy provided a refreshing mouthful to complement the perfectly cooked fish and beautifully spiced, firm and tender aubergine baja.
The showstopping savoury dish was a trio of lamb. Rump of lamb spiced and carefully cooked to a delicate pink, a seekh kebab and a beautifully crusted lamb cutlet. Served with bootor dali (a lentil dahl) and kosha gravy and with a butter naan on the side, this was a fitting finale.
I loved the pairing of Cycles Gladiator Cabernet Sauvignon from California – a complex spicy and peppery wine which stood up beautifully to the carefully spiced lamb dish.
For dessert, the dark chocolate sphere with orange chocolate cream, candied orange and chocolate walnut crumble came with a warm spiced caramel sauce sweet, sticky and redolent of Christmas. We loved our final wine pairing of Tokaji Blue Label Azsu, 5 Puttonyos, Hungary 2016 which was really sweet and rich with notes of citrus and acidity cutting through
Of course, we are already fans of Atul Kochhar. Kanishka is an excellent showcase for his dishes and is very well located for both Mayfair and Oxford Street. Service throughout the evening was exemplary despite a busy restaurant including large private groups downstairs and at the front of the restaurant.
Perhaps it’s not surprising that it is such a popular place. It’s well-priced for the location but has an exclusive and ‘special’ feel that would make it perfect for anything from a date night to a celebratory meal with friends. Or even for a quick biriyani after shopping.
Kanishka
17-19 Maddox St,
Mayfair
London W1S 2QH
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