Last Updated on December 10, 2025
Luxury Indian dining with a difference
When I first visited Colonel Saab nearly two years ago, I was blown away by its unique charm. Situated in the historic Grade II listed building that once housed the Holborn Town Hall, this contemporary fine-dining Indian restaurant is a feast for the senses.
Named in honour of proprietor Roop Partap Choudhary’s father, a distinguished Indian Army officer, Colonel Saab dazzles with its magnificent interior. The restaurant is a veritable treasure trove, adorned with museum-worthy artworks including portrait paintings, wall-hung plates, glass decanters, family photographs, antique bedsteads, and temple doors repurposed as tables. Each piece pays homage to India and Choudhary’s rich family heritage, creating an enchanting atmosphere that is truly one-of-a-kind.
More recently, Colonel Saab opened their Trafalgar Square branch, where I had the pleasure of sampling their new six-course Memsaab’s Tasting Menu. Both restaurants are a testament to the family’s travels, during which they amassed an extraordinary collection of artefacts and savoured a diverse array of foods, from noble banquets and traditional Rajasthani lunches to British-inspired Indian breakfasts. This journey inspired an exciting menu that offers a contemporary twist on classic Indian dishes and regional specialities, many of which were acquired from the people they met along the way.
The interior of Trafalgar Square features a marble bar and a glass roof. with a balcony overlooking a central atrium, defined by dramatic, Firozabad glass chandeliers. Burnt orange painted walls are adorned with Indian artworks and military artefacts, capturing the essence of India’s rich cultural heritage. Dark wood floors, antique glass lamps, and an eclectic mix of screen dividers, historic wooden doors and leather banquettes complete the stunning ambience. Along with the main dining room, there are adaptable spaces suitable for private dining events.
The tasting menu at Colonel Saab offers a gastronomic journey with Chef Sohan Bhandari, a curation of his culinary heritage and signature dishes. We were sampling the six-course tasting menu which has several different options to suit meat eaters, pescatarians and vegetarians.
Settling into the comfort of a cosy corner with relaxing lounge music playing softly in the background, we began with cocktails. My Kunwar cocktail, Roop Pratap Choudhary’s personal creation, blends Chivas 15 with Indian spice-infused vermouth, Campari, and rhubarb, resulting in a deliciously medicinal, fruity, and bitter drink with hints of cloves and cinnamon. My companion’s Lychee Wine cocktail combines Beefeater gin and lychee, harmonizing with hints of red berries, citrus, and delicate sweetness, offering a perfect balance of gin’s bite and lychee’s sweetness.
Our first course was a South Indian tomato and lentil rasam, accompanied by mini idlis perfect for dipping and light, puff pastry tubular bites. The rasam was hot and spicy with a delightful tomato flavour, complemented by the lovely texture of the lentils and a tangy hint of tamarind.
Paired with a slightly effervescent Chenin Blanc from Niel Joubert, featuring notes of melon and citrus. With our appetites whet we moved on to Marwad’s Raj Kachori from Rajasthan – a sensationally good blend of spiced chickpeas and potato, topped with a trio of sauces, pomegranate seeds, boondi, savoury crisps, herbal jam, and a black lime chaat masala. This crunchy shell was a flavour bomb, offering a perfect contrast between the tangy yoghurt sauce, and the softness of the chickpeas and potato. Accompanied by Josephine Riesling Dr. Lippold, it is slightly sweet with notes of pineapple and tropical fruit.
Following on, my companion chose pillowy squares of Kandhari Paneer Tikka, wonderfully seasoned, stuffed with prunes & pomegranate in tomato, and garlic mustard salsa.
My Anglo Indian Chicken Chop wasn’t quite what I envisioned, but it turned out to be delicious. Madras-spiced pulled chicken parcels, featuring soft, melting, succulent flesh in a crisp panko-style coating, served with salad and tomato raisin relish.
We cleansed our palates with refreshing Alphonso Mango Sorbet before moving on to the next course. The Sunday Lamb Curry arrived like a thali, featuring small dishes of rich and warmly spiced lamb curry, brimming with flavour, aromatic cumin-spiced potato cubes, fab dal makhani, steamed rice, and light, buttery naan. The smoky and rich Nadan fish curry was accompanied by vibrant beans poriyal in a hot bean salad, nourishing buttery dal makhani, steamed rice, and Malabar paratha. Served alongside Sauvignon Blanc, Fiddlehead with distinctive grassy and mineral characteristics.
And finally, for desserts: Mishti Doi Cheesecake, a Bengali delicacy of sweetened and flavoured yoghurt cake with Bengal lime and sweet jaggery syrup, paired with raspberry mousse in a coco-pista tart adorned with passionfruit pearls, berries, and a pistachio sprinkle.
If you haven’t yet discovered Colonel Saab, I highly recommend you do. Both its Holborn and Trafalgar Square branches are fantastic. The staff are warm and attentive, the ambience is visually unique, and it serves fabulous, authentic contemporary Indian food, creating a luxurious and truly special dining experience that immerses you in a multi-sensory journey through India.
Wine – £140 Champagne- £185 (min 6pax) Cocktail – £140
Colonel Saab
Trafalgar Square
42 William IV Street
London WC2N 4DD
Leave a Reply