Last Updated on December 6, 2024
A little corner of Lecce in Covent Garden
Italy’s culinary landscape is incredibly diverse, with each region boasting unique ingredients, dishes, and cooking techniques. From the hearty pasta dishes of the north to the seafood-focused cuisine of the south, each region offers a distinct culinary experience. As one Italian told me, you will find every village has its special way of doing things – it’s a micro-regional food culture. For me, Puglia, the ‘heel’ of Italy is an area I know I need to explore more – I’ve been once for an event called Masserie Sotto le Stelle – farmhouses under the stars – what seems to have been a one-off festival over midsummer nights eve. It was a wonderful introduction to the food of this part of Italy, a geographically unique area where you are never far from the sea and yet where farming and a traditional way of life dominate. The original Capilungo is in Lecce and was founded in 1991 – Luca, who runs it still does so today, while Capilungo in Covent Garden was founded by Lecce-born brother and sister Gianluca and Asia Capilungo as well as Asia’s partner Huzefa Sajawal. With a background in hospitality (Asia is ex-Soho House and Cubitt House while Gianluca is the former bar manager of Aqua Restaurant Group) and a family history of culinary excellence it’s easy to see why this venture should fly high!
Whatever, I’d strongly recommend visiting when you have time to eat and drink at leisure – and when you are hungry!
I popped along for aperitivo before a night at the opera and it’s now firmly on my list as a place to visit pre-theatre. With an excellent range of savouries and some truly tempting sweets, biscuits and sweet pastries, it’s perfect for a light(ish) bite before an evening out. Note the ‘ish’ – as I devoured two puff pastry specialities I thought to ask about the wonderful, melting puff pastry. Made in-house and all butter!
Starting with a double espresso, I did wonder what there would be to eat. Three different types of taralli arrived first (plain, cime di rapa, and spicy) those delicious little breadstick twists. They are a great accompaniment to a glass of wine – in my case, a typically Puglian Primitivo
Rustico Leccese is the signature savoury of Capilugo – a wonderfully rich puff pastry filled with melted mozzarella, bechamel and sweet tomatoes.
Then, a ham and cheese puff with aubergine, mozzarella, tomatoes, ham and cheese
The next savoury was a great example of the care taken at Capilungo – Puccia bread is made with Senator Cappelli flour from Puglia. Puccia is a local Apuglian flatbread and Senator Cappelli flour is a particular kind of Apuglian ancient durum wheat that is great for making bread and pasta. The Puccia is used to make a type of sandwich typically filled with various ingredients such as cold cuts, cheese, vegetables, and sauces. Mine, with burrata stracciatella, pistachio and Mortadella was just a little too much for me and was packed up with all sorts of ‘oh my gosh I can’t eat any more’ mouthfuls
Apart from some delicious biscuits and a dried fig dipped in chocolate, I also tried the Almond Cupeta – a traditional sweet treat that is common across the southern regions of Italy.
It’s made with sugar almonds and sometimes honey – a really lovely mouthful.
And, of course, Pasticciotto – a kind of flaky, shortcrust pastry shell filled with a rich custard cream. Another goodie that was packed up and taken home to enjoy the next day!
I did manage to enjoy a second glass of wine though – this time a rather special one. Oltreme is 100% Susumanniello grape, a rare indigenous variety. Capilungo import their from a small family production – a wonderfully soft and warm mouthful to drink that just made me wish I could stay for the rest of the evening!
Now, part of the advantage of Capilungo for me is that the cafe, on Long Acre, is at the Holborn end – so just that bit quieter. That means I can see myself popping back in again before the Opera or Ballet – it has the kind of food that is just perfect before a show, it’s reasonably priced and at least until the masses discover how good it is, there should be a seat in the corner for me!
Capilungo,
76, Long Acre
Covent Garden
London WC2E 9LB
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