Last Updated on February 3, 2025
A Chelsea institution
After a splendid recent lunch at the Punch Bowl in Mayfair, I was keen to try another pub in the Butcombe Pub stable. Following an enjoyable stroll around the backstreets and squares that lie between the King’s Road and the river, I went to Butcombe’s Chelsea outpost – the Cross Keys for a long and satisfying late lunch.
There’s been a pub on this site in Lawrence Street since 1708 during which time Chelsea has gone up in the world and become one of London’s most desired residential areas. Perfectly placed round the corner from Cheyne Walk, the Cross Keys has grown something of a reputation as a watering hole to the stars. A plaque on the wall lists some of its illustrious guests including Dylan Thomas, JMW Turner, Agatha Christie and Bob Marley.
The Cross Keys is a spacious but cosy and welcoming, woody pub, brightened by fresh flowers, candles and antique glass mirrors. I settled in with a seasonal cocktail, the Hugo’s Royale Spritz, a wintery twist on the Italian aperitivo. This pretty pink version combines Tanqueray Blackcurrant Royale gin with elderflower, mint and Prosecco.
Meanwhile, my companion was poring over a long list of Butcombe beers. Sensing his indecision, our very helpful waiter brought over a few samples. The Butcombe Original came out tops. The drinks menu describes it as “distinctive, bitter, clean and refreshing.” He liked it very much and admitted he’d have happily whiled away the rest of the day nursing pints had we not had other, duller engagements ahead of us.
The main menu and specials board at the Cross Keys go well beyond the usual pub standards, offering a seasonal and innovative choice of dishes. Don’t worry, there’s still pie of the week plus other regulars like fish and chips and the ubiquitous burger.
I was eyeing the beef on the specials menu so went vegan for my starter, a very successful mix of juicy asparagus sitting on a heap of warming, filling chickpea chips – aka panisse – all brought together with a sweet and sharp romesco sauce.
My companion went for the Tempura Whitebait with lime and homemade tartar sauce. The thick, crunchy batter had more in common with that found in a fish and chip shop than the more delicate Japanese tempura. Yet, this in no way spoiled my friend’s enjoyment of this generous plate.
The Stokes Marsh Farm Braised Short Rib, served with confit leeks, crispy potato, red wine jus and gremolata was one of the day’s specials and special it was. The meltiest of slow-cooked meat was well paired with leek. My only gripe was the meagre amount of crispy potatoes – probably for my own good as these were essentially home-cooked crisps with the power to boost cholesterol levels if not eaten in moderation.
Another choice from the day’s specials was the Seafood Risotto, topped with a positive mound of seafood including prawns, squid, and mussels plus tempura samphire and a bergamot dressing.
There wasn’t a sponge or crumble or any custard at all on the Cross Keys’ dessert menu on the day of our visit. The options sounded more delicate and European and less calorific. My companion seriously pondered ordering two puddings in case one was not enough. I managed to contain what would have been folly – both of our choices turned out to be far larger and more filling than expected.
My companion opted for the Coconut Milk Panna Cotta, a less wobbly, softer dessert than the usual Italian version, but still very satisfying. The accompanying strongly flavoured coconut sorbet and pineapple (not enough of this…) together with passion fruit and lime all added up to a tropical take on panna cotta. There was no further mention of the need for a second pudding.
Meanwhile, I was enjoying the Valrhona Chocolate Delice, a luxurious dessert with a rich butterscotch sauce, lots of caramelised banana and a crunchy hazelnut wafer.
The Cross Keys is all set for Christmas 2024. For anyone who wants to personalise their festive front door, they are holding a Wreath-Making workshop on 2 December at 6.30 pm. Tickets are £65 per person and include mulled wine as well as all the foliage, dried fruit and decorations needed to design one’s own wreath and instruction from Blooming Flair.
For those who aren’t feeling so creative, there is a choice of several Christmas set meals, starting at £55 per person for two courses. The sweet-toothed among us might like the the festive afternoon tea (£50 for two) with fruit scones, deep-filled Viennese mince pies, spiced sticky date sponge, turkey and pancetta Scotch eggs plus finger sandwiches.
The welcome at the Cross Keys is very warm indeed and the cooking is both inventive and hearty. It’s well worth a visit if you’re in Chelsea or Battersea and want to escape the hubbub in a cosy home from home.
The Cross Keys
1 Lawrence Street, Chelsea
London SW3 5NB
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