Last Updated on February 20, 2026
Traditional tapas dining for couples and groups since 1994
5.0 out of 5.0 starsIt’s a great sign when many of your friends rave about somewhere you’re about to visit:
Mayfair institution, El Pirata, was buried in their minds as a great treasure. Navigating rough seas rocking the hospitality industry of late, El Pirata has now been open for over 30 years, but I had never been.
Moreover, I have likely spent longer eating tapas in London than in actual Spain; I should caveat here that whilst I’ve only dined in Spain for 3-4 days’ worth of travel there, some much-loved Spanish restaurants have been regular haunts for birthdays and anniversaries. Closure of our nearest (Walthamstow’s 20-year-old Orford Saloon) meant we were buoyed to discover El Pirata for ourselves and embrace Iberian cheer badly needed this gloomy autumn.
El Pirata, a few steps from Shepherd’s Market, black-beamed as a galleon with white walls heaving with Miró and Picasso prints as if raided from Athena, has a refreshingly non-corporate, non-Instagram atmosphere. Seating is intimate and candle-lit at small tables. If you’ve not booked (although to do so is wise), there are stools to sip and snack at the mirrored bar as you wait. A timbered spiral staircase drills down to a terracotta tiled basement able to host larger groups.
Although served by at least five different staff throughout our visit, our dishes and drinks arrived seamlessly with warm professionalism. The crew are all Spanish speakers, and some have worked here for decades, fostering the atmosphere of a family business.
We overheard more than one person say “see you soon”; El Pirata has built up a clientele as loyal as its staff and claims ninety per cent of visitors are regulars. The most famous present-day pirate himself, Johnny Depp, has dined here. Cast aside any fears of Mayfair snootiness, El Pirata is a relaxed restaurant where anyone would feel comfortable. Maître d’ turned matchmaker, Fred Sirieix, of TV show First Dates, cites El Pirata as the perfect place for a first date. It was equally appropriate for a Saturday evening dinner with my husband, whom I’ve been with almost as long as El Pirata has been open.
A refreshing glass of crisp Purpura Brut sparkling Cava got us in the mood for two appetiser dishes. Warm “Croquetas de jamón Ibérico”, Iberian ham croquettes were pleasingly cheesy with a breaded crust. Would it be sacrilege to say, with their hot centres oozing with flakes of salty ham, they evoked memories of Findus crispy pancakes? – in a good way!
A dish of Padrón peppers came as expected, softly blackened jade fingers with salt; there is little to go wrong here, even if it’s probably ten years since I bit into an explosively hot one. I miss a good game of Padrón Roulette.
Patatas bravas, again pretty standard but served with mayo swirl and a sprinkle of chives upon the smoky tomato sauce to elevate presentation.
“Carrilleras de bacalao”, marinated cod cheeks were delicious flakes of moist white fish threaded onto two skewers, making them perfect to share as a couple. A glass of Inurrieta Blanco, a vibrant Sauvignon Blanc from the Navarra region (one of several wines available by the glass), was a full-bodied foil for the garlic, dry but with balanced acidity.
Should you wish to select a full bottle, El Pirata boasts more than 140 wine choices spanning Spain’s diverse terroir (or should I say terruño?) from the damp Galician coast to the hot, dry Mediterranean and every micro-climate in between. The wine list has been lovingly curated over 30 years in partnership with longstanding suppliers; El Pirata’s website proudly challenges connoisseurs to expand their Spanish wine knowledge from their cellar. To inform your choice, a QR code on the wine list links to detailed tasting notes to help you discover a new favourite – a useful feature whether or not you’re at sea here.
“Pollo al ajillo”, pan-fried chicken – also in two easily shareable pieces – with white wine and garlic was delicate and sweet, the chilli and olive oil flavours soaking into the white meat. We’d enjoyed everything; the classics are done very well, and both meat and fish choices had our taste buds clicking like flamenco heels. “Would it be hyperbole…” I asked my husband, “to say this was the best chicken dish I remember eating in my life?”
Our other veg dish, “Coliflor asada con Almendras”, was served cold with flaked almonds and mint. Soft creamy florets mashed easily against the crunch of toasted nuts. We were pleased with the combination of dishes; six items between two of us left space for dessert.
Tarta Santiago is an artfully presented triangle of traditional Galician cake with vanilla ice cream. The blob of fruit sauce underneath and cigarette biscuit poised on top raised this above pre-served portions of dessert you might have had shoved at you in La Tasca.
Churros con chocolate delivered piping hot sticks of golden, crispy churros, fresh from the fryer; the milky chocolate sauce clung lovingly to their zig-zag surface texture. Perfect for dipping and feeding to each other, Lady and the Tramp style!
Coming to a close, two tumblers of Pacharán, a fruity Basque liqueur made by macerating sloes in anise-flavoured alcohol, were the perfect sweet grog to linger over as the ice melted into the ruby liquid. Having such a lovely time, we accepted the suggestion of coffee and enjoyed the nicest espressos we remembered this side of the English Channel. Were you to paint a perfect picture of a tapas dinner for two, in a cosy restaurant, in a smart central location, you’d get El Pirata.
I see precisely why ninety per cent of El Pirata’s clientele are regulars; freshly prepared food with attention to presentation and attentive service, all in an evocative atmosphere. Once you’ve been you’ll want to go back. I would surmise that the ten per cent who don’t, don’t live in London and unless they’re in Spain, kicking themselves. If I lived nearer, I think I’d be there every other week. To quote Captain Jack Sparrow, “Not all treasure is silver and gold, mate”, but El Pirata is treasure worth finding.
El Pirata of Mayfair
5-6 Down Street
London W1J 7AQ
Tel: 020 7491 3810
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