Last Updated on June 4, 2024
Turning Japanese at Kibou Battersea
In the early 1980s, I brought back a box of sushi to London from Tokyo airport for my mum to try. If there were any Japanese restaurants in London at that time I was certainly unaware of them and there was nothing like that in my sleepy West London suburb. Somehow the rice, vinegar and raw fish survived the journey in the hold of the JAL jumbo jet. It’s a sign of how far the London food scene has travelled that I’m not surprised that Kibou, a self-styled Japanese kitchen and bar, has opened a new branch in the bouji Battersea neighbourhood right between Clapham Junction and Wandsworth Common.
It’s a sign of how far the London food scene has travelled that I’m not surprised that Kibou, a self-styled Japanese kitchen and bar, has opened a new branch in the bouji Battersea neighbourhood right between Clapham Junction and Wandsworth Common. Kibou has other outlets in Cheltenham, Bristol, Solihull, Oxford and Cambridge and a long menu that covers many Japanese culinary styles. There are ‘Passport to Japan’ specials, Kibou Signature Dishes, Sharing Plates, the intriguing sounding Sushi Tacos, Bao Buns, Sushi, Sashimi, Tempura and Wagyu dishes. But can a place with such a wide-ranging menu deliver on quality?
Kibou Battersea’s interior is vibrantly designed with cherry blossom hanging from the ceiling and bold manga-inspired murals that pop out from the grey walls and a hip R&B soundtrack to keep your energy levels up. Complementary wasabi peas and bottles of still and sparkling water arrived while we were giving the menu a once over – a nice touch. But before eating we needed cocktails.
The Kakuteru was a blend of Creme de Peche with the acidity of yuzu sherbert, the sweetness of passionfruit fizz and the kick of a vodka shot. If you fancy a fruity, spicy take on a Margarita then you should try the Hanabi, a mix of Reposado Tequila, lychee, lime, agave and Tabasco for an enervating chilli burn.
I’m a sucker for a Nasu Dengaku; half a roast aubergine came doused in oil with a caramelised sweet miso glaze, sesame & spring onion. It had a sweet melting interior and a lip-smacking umami taste. Delicious! Chicken karaage is another classic dish. Super-crunchy pieces of fried chicken thigh marinated in soy, ginger and garlic and served with sriracha mayo. Very moreish! A full-bodied bottle of Picpoul de Pinet, Les Girelles made by winemaker Jean-Luc Colombo in the Languedoc-Roussilon area had plenty of citrus notes and a hint of sweetness – it was a good match for the flavour profile of the food.
The problem with the 10-piece futomaki (large maki) volcano roll was that it was too tasty. I couldn’t stop eating the rice-encased salmon, avocado & tobiko bites fried in a tempura batter with lashings of sauce on top. The crisp exterior gave way to the softness of the avocado and the salmon creating a seductive mouthfeel. Tuna Sashimi was an exercise in simplicity – beautifully fresh and thick cut. Roasted red pepper nigiri – a sliver of roasted pepper on rice felt slightly underpowered after the futomaki.
Takoyaki are an ‘Osaka street food favourite’ although I had them first in Berlin! Little moist fried dumpling balls filled with octopus served with a savoury Tonkatsu sauce, mayo and bonito flakes – it’s a bit like a gooey fish cake with savoury and spicy sauces.
Elegantly served in a black box with a blue ribbon, umami-flavour-laden grilled Kabayaki eel arrived with seasoned rice and Unagi sauce and sides of miso soup and Japanese pickles. I love this type of Japanese ‘meal in a box’ with the richness of the eel cut through by the piquancy of the pickles.
We needed a cool down after the savoury dishes. A mixed dish of tasty Mochi ice creams – strawberry cheesecake, mango and chocolate – was just the job.
The team behind Kibou Battersea have created a little slice of Japan in SW11. It’s the perfect friendly neighbourhood joint. Informal and buzzy with reasonably priced dishes that you want to eat. It’s a good place to take your ‘too cool for school’ teens and ‘Japanese-curious’ oldies.
KIBOU London – Japanese Kitchen & Bar
175-177 Northcote Road
Battersea
London
SW11 6QF
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