Last Updated on September 1, 2026
La Dolce Vita comes to Whitehall
5.0 out of 5.0 stars
A great restaurant is not defined by its food alone; the design, location, service, and the scene it creates can also contribute to its success. Restaurants are businesses, and the relentless demands of capitalism can see successful concepts like Langosteria being transplanted within countries and across continents. The French Big Mamma group specialises in ‘fun’ Italian dining and operates in nine separate countries from Europe to Dubai. British group Evolv has spun out its Sartoria brand of Milanese Italian dining across several UK locations. Gordon Ramsey has built a transnational group of restaurants that spin out replicable models such as Bread St Kitchen, Gordon Ramsay Hell’s Kitchen, Gordon Ramsay Steak, and Gordon Ramsay Burger.
But having a strong brand in a local market is no guarantee that recreating the same chemistry elsewhere will work. I’ve never been convinced by Covent Garden stalwart Balthazar, New York restaurateur Keith McNally’s London outpost of his Big Apple take on a traditional French brasserie. It has always felt too Disneyfied for me. However, Balthazar is still packing in the punters. A recent London failure was an upmarket all-day dining brand called Café Lapérouse, situated in the swanky OWO building, inspired by the iconic Parisian restaurant and favourite of Victor Hugo, which opened in 1766 and has outposts in Paris and Saudi Arabia. Its attempt to replicate the clubby feel of the Parisian original never felt right for London.
A more successful transplantation has been the 180-cover La Môme London in the Berkeley Hotel, the new outpost of the eponymous restaurant in Cannes that sits on the swanky Promenade de la Croisette. The interior glitz and glamour of Cannes has been successfully recreated and attracts a stylish expat French crowd; however, a cold, grey, rainy London is a very different proposition to the South of France.
Langosteria London arrived a few weeks ago at the OWO (Old War Office), home to the city’s first Raffles hotel, 85 private residences, nine restaurants and three bars. Langosteria (langoustine meets osteria) is a Milanese Italian seafood restaurant group with three sites in Italy’s fashion capital, plus siblings in Sardinia’s Porto Cervo, Paraggi Bay on the Italian Riviera, Paris, and St Moritz. For those of us more familiar with jetsetting around Neasden or Tulse Hill and simply too busy to visit St Moritz or Milan this is obviously a good thing. Langosteria’s founder Enrico Buonocore grew up on the Amalfi coast, hence the menu’s seafood emphasis; but the restaurants are anything but simple osterias, shipping in the finest ingredients from all around the globe and with a maximalist design aesthetic from Italian architect Carlo Samarati that attracts the beautiful people, and me.
You enter Langosteria through a low-lit bar with its stunning travertine and Italian walnut counter. Verde Alpi marble floors take you from the first dining room with draped crimson curtains, red leather banquettes and red striped cushions, into the Historical Room, originally the Old War Office’s meeting room, where the historic, fireplaces and ceilings sit comfortably juxtaposed with Venini lamps, Medea chairs and Molteni tables, and hand-crafted silk wallcoverings by Misha.
My understanding of interior design is limited, so credit to Wallpaper magazine for doing the heavy lifting on this. What I do know is that if Scandi minimalism is your thing, you might be overwhelmed.
In charge of Langosteria London’s kitchen is Michele Biassoni. He has created a menu attuned to suit the London market that also features signature dishes such as the yellow submarine risotto, a huge plate of saffron rice with langoustines. There is also an Asian influence creeping in from his time at Iyo, Milan’s premier Japanese restaurant.
We started with a couple of glasses of fizz. A glass of Ferrari Perlé Rose from Trentino, made using the traditional method from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes, had cheery celebratory raspberry notes. More refined was the Assemblage Il Extra Brut Bellavista Franciacorta, a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Nero grapes with a touch of Pinot Bianco. It had a dry, crisp minerality which helped focus my mind on ordering as the prices at Langosteria are, for obvious reasons such as location, fitting out costs and quality of produce, pretty astronomic.
A Pappa Pomodoro was a luxe riff on the hearty, rustic soup. Unfeasibly sweet tomatoes sat on top of a warm bread suspension in oil, with a few juicy clams thrown in for good measure. It was a message of intent from the kitchen.
Unexpectedly a Jersey rock oyster turned up on a platter. I hadn’t ordered it, but it was super fresh, briny and very welcome.
From the Crudo menu we tried the Gambero Rosso with beetroot and shards of Sardinian Pecorino Gran Nuraghe which added a salty bite. The red prawns were wonderful and the raw beetroot slices added a satisfying crunch.
From the Entrée selection at Langosteria, the charcoal-grilled Tonno Rosso OToro was simply fabulous. The fat in the tuna dissolves when grilled, creating a silky, melting texture that made me swoon with foodie delight.
The Greens section on the menu is there to make you think you are ordering something healthy. Caramelised zucchini were plated with a luscious tuna and mayo-based ‘tonnato’ sauce livened up by piquant little ‘capperi cunzati’, fried capers.
A slab of perfectly cooked wild turbot was served ‘alla Milanese’, topped with a crisp breadcrumb and herb mixture. It sat on a bed of sautéed chard with a puddle of saffron sauce. Perfectly delicious.
A pasta dish of al dente tagliolini was buttery and luxurious, subtly perfumed with Amalfi lemons, with the gentle addition of langoustines enhancing the feeling of well-being. I still can’t work out how the pasta was so light.
A minty dessert of strawberries and Chantilly cream was a simple and refreshing dessert to finish.
If you are wealthy, just go and enjoy Langosteria London. You’ll feel at home; the food is terrific, and the charming staff will make you feel as if they are old friends. If you don’t have the readies available, is it worth saving up for? Yes, Langosteria is definitely worth a splurge, and you’ll get a glimpse into another world. It’s not real, but is anything?
Langosteria London
Whitehall Place, London SW1A 2BD
020 4650 0777
Other new openings that have caught our eye this month include:
Romy Gill at The Pem
Romy Gill MBE, one of Britain’s most celebrated Indian chefs, is taking over The Pem at Conrad London St. James, bringing regional Indian cooking to one of London’s most established luxury hotel dining rooms. Her food moves from the kitchens of Punjab and Bengal to the coastal flavours of Kerala and the spice traditions of Rajasthan and this restaurant will be an important addition to London’s top-end Indian options.
Romy Gill at The Pem
Conrad London St. James 22-28 Broadway, SW1H 0BH
020 3301 8080
Pearl
All-day dining Mediterranean restaurant Pearl is opening at Brown Hart Gardens, one of Mayfair’s best-kept secrets, in an extraordinary location atop a Grade II listed working electricity substation! Alongside the restaurant launch, the historic 950 sq. metre gardens will reopen to the public following an impressive architectural and horticultural redesign by the late renowned landscape architect and horticulturalist Nigel Dunnett.
The menu has been created under the direction of Lisa Goodwin-Allen, Culinary Director at The Beaumont Mayfair. Expect dishes such as Burrata, grilled peppers, artichokes and hazelnuts; Octopus with ‘nduja aioli; Grilled swordfish, preserved lemon and parsley; and Lamb chops with sumac, tzatziki and dill.
Pearl Mayfair
Brown Hart Gardens, London W1K 8UH
020 7499 9499
Gordon Ramsay at Sea Containers
Ramsay opens yet another restaurant, this time riverside in the iconic Sea Containers building. Open from breakfast through to dinner, the menu celebrates the very best of British produce, from exceptional seafood and shellfish to Gordon Ramsay classics, all served from a dining room and expansive outdoor terrace overlooking the Thames.
Gordon Ramsay at Sea Containers
20 Upper Ground, SE1 9PD
020 3747 1063
Nakimushi
Urchin’s Yuji Shimokawa Kelly and Robin Kosuge of Robin’s Ramen have joined forces with the Dorian team to create NAKIMUSHI, a dual-format Japanese townhouse with a ramen bar on the ground floor and a Japanese restaurant above in Notting Hill Gate.
Signature bowls include Robin’s celebrated Lobster Ramen with Seafood Paitan and Komatsuna, and Charshu Pork Belly Ramen made with Basque Chicken Broth and Ajitama. On the first floor, the menu broadens to explore hot Japanese cooking include line-caught Steamed Turbot with Red Vinegar An; Grilled Ibérico x Duroc Pork Loin with Red Almond Miso; and Grilled Tuna Kama with Padrón Pepper Dashi and Kimizu. Keep an eye out for my review.
Nakimushi
7 Kensington Mall, London, W8 4DY
020 3 924 9246
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