Last Updated on September 23, 2022
Covent Garden’s Wellness Café
Lilly’s is an all-day ‘forward-thinking café seamlessly blending wellness and fun’. We all need some wellness and fun in our lives so I hopped down to Henrietta St in Covent Garden for a pre-opera supper to investigate. The brainchild of Canadian pastry chef Kimberly Lin whose London CV boasts The Square (2 Michelin stars), The Savoy, Corinthia and Claridge’s as head pastry chef, Lilly’s café sits in the ground floor conservatory of the stylish townhouse at no. 3 Henrietta St (which houses Pivot – reviewed recently). There is a breakfast menu, afternoon tea with star-sign cakes, tableside tea-leaf reading, along with a ‘global brunch offering’ and lots of champagne. There is even an afternoon tea with bottomless cake!
The interior is painted in a stunning shade of pumpkin orange and with hanging greenery, comfy brown banquettes with blue velvet chairs, and astrological light fittings influenced by the 17th c. astrologer William Lilly after whom the café is named, it’s a delightful oasis away from the hustle and bustle of Covent Garden – and also perfect for the opera!
Post-supper I was going on to review Richard Strauss’ rather gory opera Salome, so I needed a couple of cocktails as a stiffener. The Bergamot Spritz was a light and refreshing blend of Lillet Rose, Rosé liqueur, and Moët rosé with a hint of …rose! The Mandarin Bellini, quite simply mixing Mandarin Juice and Prosecco had a delightful acidity and sweetness.
There is a lot of attention paid to presentation at Lilly’s. The Covent Garden market salad from the small plates menu was as attractive a dish as I’ve seen in a long time. A seasonal mixed salad, it was composed of fresh leaves, the crunch of chickpeas, tomatoes, pretty edible flowers and studded with pomegranate seeds.
The Levantine Nachos from the same menu offered a more substantial option. A tomatoey melange of super-healthy lavash crackers, and spiced pecan mince with a garlicky tahini sauce created a great vegan dish with plenty of flavour and texture.
Once the cocktails ran out it was time for wine. I enjoyed the fizz and crispness of a glass of Vinho Verde from the AB Valley, Loureiro in Portugal. My guest enjoyed her fruity glass of Bio-Kementer, Grüner Veltliner from Austria. From the large plates menu, we tried the richly flavoured spaghetti, served nicely al dente with cherry tomatoes with the kick of red chilli, pine nuts and basil.
Our other main was the Sweet Roasted Pepper and Burrata Flatbread which came slathered with honey, walnuts, radicchio, the sweet piquancy of red peppers and the softness of burrata perched upon a crisp flatbread.
With Kimberley’s background, it would have been foolish not to sample some of the Cakes & Bakes. The Carrot Cake was moist and light with a delicious American-style cream cheese frosting. In contrast, the Chocolate Brownie was dark, dense and intense – just how I like it.
Lilly’s is the perfect Covent Garden pit-stop, whether you’re in the area for shopping, a bit of culture, or just meeting up with your mates. It’s an all-day offer and for us, the flexible menu and casual chic style hit the mark perfectly.
Lilly’s Cafe
3 Henrietta St, London WC2E 8LU
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