Last Updated on October 29, 2026
Quaglino’s Reborn
4.0 out of 5.0 starsIconic London restaurant Quaglino’s has just re-opened after a major refit. Founded in 1929 by restaurateur Giovanni Quaglino, Quaglino’s was a favourite of the Royal Family and London socialites. The restaurant combined great service with entertainment. In the 1930s and 1940s the pioneering African American pianist Leslie “Hutch” Hutchinson was the darling of London society, as known for his exploits in the bedroom as he was for his undoubted musical talents.
The original Quaglino’s closed in 1977. At this point I need to declare an interest. My dad was musical director at Quaglino’s in the 1970s and I even played the drums there a few times which may have hastened its demise. Sir Terence Conran brought the restaurant back in1993 and I was involved again as pianist and bandleader and eventually as an agent booking the musicians.
Sir Terence’s vision was breathtaking. He took the Parisian brasserie concept as exemplified by Montparnasse favourite La Coupole with its columns and seafood bar, added some Hollywood glamour with London’s sexiest staircase and more marble and gold than you could imagine. But with all these reference points it was still cool and modern. No restaurant opening has generated as much heat since then. It was packed and became the go-to place for everyone from British and Hollywood royalty to the average punter, so fulfilling Sir Terence’s democratic vision of bringing style to the masses. General manager Eric Garnier ran the show with charm and Gallic precision, training a generation of managers who would go on to dominate the London scene for the next decade. It was the essence of “Absolutely Fabulous”, and the very nickable Q logo ashtray became a symbol of London’s 1990s renaissance.
The Conran Group and its successor D&D are long gone, and the group is now run by The Evolv Collection who have invested a considerable sum in refitting and relaunching Quaglino’s. They are very keen on reinjecting the Conran DNA into the group’s offer with portraits of Giovanni Quaglino, Sir T and the late Queen looking down on proceedings.
The first thing to say about the reboot is that glamour is back! The mezzanine level Q bar is decked out in black red and gold bringing a prohibition era vibe to the space. The untouchable staircase sweeps down to the restaurant where a champagne bar now sits directly in front of you. The back end of the restaurant has the stage where an excellent band were playing jazzy versions of pop classics and Bond themes. This setup makes sense of the space with the sound well controlled and the cavernous acoustic tamed. The side and central areas of the restaurant have been raised improving sightlines to the entertainment and adding to the theatricality of the space.
The famous seafood counter has returned and an innovation is the Tabac, a counter where you can enjoy desserts and cocktails.
The famous columns have been painted with designs that reflect the different decades of the restaurant. And it is this celebration of heritage that infuses both the drinks and food menus. They trace Giovanni Quaglino’s journey from his birthplace in Piedmont, to the Martinez Hotel in Cannes and then to the Savoy in London.
We toasted the restaurant’s rebirth with the crisp peachy notes of Laurent-Perrier La Cuvée Brut.
Thursday night is cabaret night at Quags so as well as the band there were a couple of “International Showgirls” strutting their stuff.
We enjoyed a couple of cocktails, a Mayfair Belle blended of No.3 London Dry Gin, St Germain elderflower liqueur, kumquat honey wine and the patriotic fizz of Louis Pommery England Brut sparkling wine. It had a meaningful kick smoothed over by the elderflower and sweetness of the honey. The non-alcoholic Piedmont Grove mixed up Everleaf Forest, jasmine, orange and rosemary soda for a refreshing herbal experience.
From the seafood counter a Quaglino’s prawn cocktail with a Marie Rose sauce, baby gem and lemon was fresh and crunchy, had a generous portion of prawns and a satisfactory zing.
A tuna tartare was a layered collation of fresh chunks of tuna, avocado, the acidity of capers and some crisp shards of Melba toast. There were too many capers for me, but that’s just a minor tweak.
The mains had a reassuringly retro feel. My fillet of turbot Mountbatten was inspired by a dish served at the wedding of the late Queen. A perfectly cooked tranche of the king of fishes was served with lemon, capers and samphire and finished off with a delicate white wine velouté.
Sautéed chicken Alice saw tender white Cotswold chicken meat plated with tender mushroom and a rich white wine and cognac sauce. A side of French beans doused in a caramelised shallot butter had a pleasing snap and Pommes Mousseline (that’s mash to you and me) was smooth and creamy.
Eating out can be a dangerous occupation but never before have I had to sign a waiver before eating a dessert. Having relocated to the Tabac we loved the theatre of the “Edible Helium Balloon” dessert. Sugar based helium balloons are inflated then placed above a chic dessert cocktail. Cognac, pear and apple cordial, bitter Bianco, Chinotto
liqueur, Frangelico hazelnut liqueur and chocolate bitters created an alcoholic sweet treat that rounded the meal off perfectly. Sadly, my voice didn’t go up two octaves after popping the balloon!
Quags is back! Just as the 90s iteration was a very different beast to the original, this time around it’s all about honouring the heritage and having fun. Because of my history with the place, I’m invested in its success and I wasn’t sure what to expect. The good news is that the name has regained its lustre and it’s reestablished as a great place for a night out. And with the lunchtime £10 plate offer Sir Terence’s democratic vision has been renewed.
16 Bury Street, St James’s, London
020 7930 6767
Other new openings that have caught our eye this month include:
Kid
Dave Carter and chef Sertaç Dirik have created a lot of waves with their nouveau Turkish cuisine. Try the XL Cornish Scallop with Coco Bean Fasülye or the eponymous Kid with Fig Leaf and Freekeh. It’s great to have a quality Turkish restaurant back in Soho.
Kid
55 Frith Street, London W1D 4SJ
Cassette
Trendy Peckham bistro Levan has opened their new outlet in Covent Garden which they describe as a “Modern French Bistrot – Parisian Energy”. Unlike some of the newer wave of Parisian bistros the menu is not totally meat-centric which will please London diners. Oh, and did I mention that the sound system is cassette-based. Apparently it’s all the rage!
Cassette
42 Maiden Lane, London WC2E 7LJ
Rosina
We are big Adam Byatt fans at London Unattached with his Michelin starred Trinity in Clapham being a particular favourite and we also love Brasserie Constance at Fulham Pier, now part of Fulham FC’s matchday hospitality offering. Rosina sees Byatt opening a neighbourhood Italian restaurant in Wandsworth and its already building quite a buzz in South London and beyond.
Rosina
5 Bellevue Road, London SW17 7EF
020 8672 5888
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