Last Updated on December 3, 2025
La Dolce Vita meets Savile Row Style.
4.0 out of 5.0 stars
Sir Terence Conran revolutionised the London dining scene in the 1990s with a slew of characterful restaurants that defined the culinary zeitgeist. The riverside power brasserie Le Pont de la Tour was a heady mix of celebrities, city boys and gangsters, and Quaglino’s redefined Paris’ La Coupole by giving it a hyper-glamorous post-modern spin. Sitting elegantly in Savile Row was and still is the original Sartoria, an homage to Milanese culinary style and English tailoring that at one point even had star chef Francesco Mazzei from the much-lamented l’Anima running the kitchen.
With Conran Restaurants and its successor D&D both gone now, the group has emerged under new management as the Evolv Collection. In what is probably a smart move, they have replaced the Fine Dining offer at Launceston Place with a Kensington branch of Sartoria, hence Sartoria Launceston Place. This chi-chi locale has long been in need of a good quality neighbourhood restaurant. With a bar, breakfast opening and a weekday and Sunday lunch offer on top of the à la carte menu, the restaurant is well positioned to do just that.
Sartoria Launceston Place has a very different feel to its Savile Row sibling. Set in a charming Georgian building, the restaurant is a discreet warren of interconnecting rooms with wooden floors, light green walls and chic black and white photos on the walls.
There are mannequins and other tailoring bits and bobs dotted around, reflecting the restaurant’s heritage. We start with a couple of glasses of a deliciously crisp Lombardian Franciacorta, Mosnel Brut, that gives our digestive systems a yeasty kick whilst we give the menu a once-over.
It is set up in classic Italian style, headed up by an Aperitivo list followed by bread and snacks – Cicchetti e Pane. We decide to forgo the snacks and bread to try out a couple of the house cocktails. The Campari Spritz, a blend of Campari bitter, Prosecco and Fever Tree Soda water, had bite and a refreshing fizz, whereas the Peach Bellini, peach purée and Prosecco, was light and refreshing.
From the Antipasti list, the classic Piedmontese dish Vitello Tonnato was perfectly executed. The veal carpaccio was thinly sliced and melted on the tongue, well balanced by the rich tuna mayonnaise. The pickled crunch of cauliflower and caperberries added a gentle acidity.
A deceptively simple octopus salad of potato, celery, capers, olives and carrots was a beautifully constructed cold collation, lightly dressed in olive oil.
On a chill winter’s evening, we felt the need for the carbohydrate comfort of some pasta from the Primi Piatti list. A plate of Calamarata alla Pescatora delivered. The al dente Calamarata, a Neapolitan pasta that resembles squid rings, which gives it its name, was topped with a surprisingly intense seafood sauce throbbing with mussels, clams and red prawns. A glass of 2024 Nero d’Avola ‘Libellula’, Terre di Vita from Sicily, had a lovely balance of tannins and brambly black fruits that was a great match with the seafood.
A dish of Tagliolini al Tartufo was an exercise in unabashed luxury. Soft buttery strands of pasta were given a salty edge by the addition of parmesan and then topped with a generous portion of fabulous black truffle. The richness of the pasta was lightened by a 2024 Offida Pecorino ‘Belato’, Carminucci from the Marche, which was light, dry and floral with an elderflower nose and green apple notes.
For our mains, we chose a tender Aberdeen Angus beef fillet of impeccable provenance, served with a creamy, powerful green pepper sauce.
Tonna alla Puttanesca lived up to its name with a spicy chilli heat emanating from the dark tomato, olive and caper sauce slathering a generous portion of succulent chunks of tuna belly.
We finished off what had been an excellent meal with a couple of boozy desserts. I’d never had a Torta Diplomatica before. It’s an Italian layered cake with sponge, puff pastry, Diplomatica cream – an Italian version of Chantilly cream – which is then drenched with the marzipan flavour of Amaretto. I will be having it again!
A Tiramisù was light and fluffy with the sweetness of Marsala wine adding depth to the coffee and chocolate flavours.
With charming service, a confident sense of self and a top-notch food offer, the Evolv Collection have made an excellent start with this extension of the Sartoria brand. The food is confident and authentic, and it bodes well for the future of what was once the most progressive, dynamic and stylish restaurant group in the country.
Sartoria Launceston Place
1A Launceston Place,
London,
W8 5RL
020 7937 6912
Looking for more Evolv Collection reviews? Check out Liverpool Street Chop House
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