Last Updated on March 23, 2026
Simpson’s – The Renaissance of a London Classic by Jeremy King
5.0 out of 5.0 starsIt’s with great excitement that Simpson’s has reopened on The Stand. This renowned establishment has earned itself a place in British history. Opened in 1828 by Samuel Reiss as the Grand Cigar Divan, it was originally a coffee house and smoking room. London gentlemen came here to read newspapers and play serious chess; it quickly became a major chess centre.
In 1848, Reiss partnered with caterer John Simpson, and it was transformed into a restaurant, renamed Simpson’s Grand Divan Tavern. This marked the beginning of its famed roast-beef era, with signature carving trolleys wheeled around and carved at the table – a tradition which became its hallmark.
Over the years, Simpson’s attracted a distinguished mix of political and literary figures, including Benjamin Disraeli, Charles Dickens and Winston Churchill, who famously kept a regular table by the fireplace. It also became embedded in popular culture, praised by P. G. Wodehouse and even featured in a Sherlock Holmes story by Arthur Conan Doyle.
Simpson’s closed in 2020 and has just reopened this month under famed restaurateur Jeremy King. It has retained its famous carving trolleys and now includes a second dining room and two bars (Simpson’s Bar and latenight Nellie’s in the basement). The menu promises a return to the classic British roasts, grills, pies and game. I went along to find out…
The entrance on the Strand still retains its grandeur, complete with a smartly dressed doorman ready to welcome you in. There’s an undeniable buzz from the moment you arrive – guests in their finest attire, from elegant older visitors reliving past glories, to restaurant industry insiders deep in conversation, and younger crowds experiencing it all for the first time.
The Grand Divan dining room is richly clad in dark oak panelling, warmly carpeted with sumptuous tobacco-coloured leather banquettes and a mix of booths and elegant seating arrangements. Romanesque pillars frame the space, while beautifully corniced ceilings are adorned with crystal chandeliers. It truly feels like stepping into a private club, with a real sense of occasion woven throughout.
Now in its first week following the soft opening, the man himself, Jeremy King, was in attendance, warmly chatting with guests. After our convivial exchange, he kindly agreed to a quick photo.
The cocktail menu offers a well-curated selection of classics. Martinis could be in two sizes ( a nice touch) – £8 or £16. We opted for the smaller versions, which looked wonderfully dainty. The pretty glasses were perfectly chilled – my Martini Sofia was made with Belvedere vodka, Sofia rosé vermouth and a twist of lemon zest, while my companion chose the Simpson’s Gin Martini – a refined mix of No.3 gin, Sacred dry vermouth, finished with a sherry rinse and a choice of olive or lemon zest.
The menu at Simpson’s is reassuringly nostalgic, and I was genuinely excited to take a trip down memory lane, happily drawn to old classics and flavours reminiscent of my mother’s kitchen. There’s everything from daily pies and puddings to boiled ham with parsley sauce, railway mutton curry, and Dover sole. And how could we resist the allure of silver trolleys and master carvers?
But first things first – we started with a perfectly plated classic Waldorf salad, fresh and crisp, with finely chopped apple and celery, sweet red grapes, and caramelised walnuts, all brought together with a light, lemony crème fraiche dressing. Alongside it, a rather splendid prawn cocktail, with all the right elements: a generous portion of juicy prawns, thinly sliced avocado, and crisp lettuce, all imbued with a well-balanced Thousand Island dressing – a nostalgic, seafood-laced silver bowl of deliciousness.
From the wine list, we chose a glass of Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2024, Combe de la Lune, Atelier des Sources, which stood up beautifully to the bold flavours with its fresh acidity and delicate floral and herbal notes. And a glass of Saint-Joseph Rouge 2022 from Domaine Lionnet in the Northern Rhône offered aromas of bright red fruits with a gentle touch of spice, rounding things out perfectly.
Moving on to the main course, the drama truly began as the chef arrived at our table in full old-school attire, a silver trolley in tow, revealing a roast rib of Devonshire beef carved tableside…all the theatre you could wish for. I particularly appreciated the option to choose rare, medium, or well-done end cuts.
It was fabulous: tender, juicy, and full of deep, rich flavour, served without pretence alongside sweet and chunky roasted carrots and parsnips, seasonal greens, and a magnificent Yorkshire pudding, finished with generous lashings of horseradish cream.
The Barnsley chop was fat and chunky, with beautifully pink meat, served alongside Simpson’s mint sauce, tender broccoli, and moreish buttery mash so firm you could stick a pitchfork in it, and it wouldn’t fall over.
And finally, we shared an astonishingly good treacle tart, a step up from my mother’s more kitchen-ready version, with a silky, treacle interior encased in an impossibly thin, crisp pastry, and a generous dollop of tangy sour cream, brightened by a hint of lime zest.
Afterwards, we headed down to Nellie’s Bar, in the basement of Simpson’s, for a nightcap and a touch of decadent glamour before heading home. It’s named after an Edwardian opera singer who, rumour has it, led a scandalous life. This dimly lit haven was designed by Shayne Brady, who was given free rein by King to go wild – and wild he did, with leopard- and tiger-print upholstery and theatrical ruched curtains that made the space feel deliciously over-the-top.
This must be one of the most exciting new openings of the year. I can’t wait to go back, but truly, it’s the kind of place worth saving for a special occasion, because it is glorious.
Simpson’s In The Strand
100 Strand, London WC2R 0EZ, United Kingdom
Telephone: +44207 836 9112
For more classic British restaurants, check our feature on London’s best British Restaurants
OPENING TIMES
Breakfast
Monday to Friday – 07:00 – 11:00 (last orders)
Saturday & Sunday – 08:00 – 11:00 (last orders)
Monday to Saturday
Lunch – 11:30 – 15:00 (last orders)
Dinner – 17:00 – 23:30 (last orders)
Sunday
Lunch – 11:30 – 15:00 (last orders)
Dinner – 17:00 – 22:30 (last orders)
New Openings to Have on Your Radar
London’s dining scene shows no signs of slowing, with several exciting new openings bringing everything from fire-led Thai cuisine to immersive Japanese experiences and sky-high City views. Here are some that have caught our eye:
MIKO Mei Fair – This April sees a touch of Thai spirit opening in Mayfair, MIKO Mei Fair is the latest from Samyukta Nair (Jamavar, Bombay Bustle). Set in a Georgian townhouse, the 50-cover restaurant blends theatrical interiors with bold Thai flavours, led by Chef Soonthorn Apaipat. Expect lobster choo chee, lamb Massaman curry, and apple wood-fired Peking duck with Penang curry, alongside spice-forward cocktails.
Gordon Ramsay’s Bread Street Kitchen & Bar – If you’ve been watching Netflix’s Being Gordon Ramsay, you’ll have heard all about Bread Street Kitchen & Bar, which marks Ramsay’s 100th global restaurant. It opens its doors on the 6th May. Set up on the 59th floor of 22 Bishopsgate, expect spectacular City views and contemporary British dining.
Hell’s Kitchen, London. Gordon has been VERY busy! Opening 2nd April at The Cumberland Hotel near Hyde Park, Ramsay brings his famous global concept to the UK for the first time. The menu features iconic dishes such as the Idiot Sandwich, Hell’s Kitchen Burger, and Beef Wellington, alongside premium sharing cuts and indulgent desserts.
MA/NA – Also opening this April on Upper Grosvenor Street, Markus Thesleff’s most ambitious Japanese project yet channels the philosophy of ‘mana’, turning a meal into a memory. Executive Chef Leo Tanyag serves signature Japanese dishes complemented by an extensive sake and cocktail programme inspired by 1970s Tokyo.
Signature Afternoon Tea at The Zetter Bloomsbury – For those who love an afternoon tea, where could be more elegant than a garden-facing tea at The Zetter’s Orangery, which opens on 1st April. Enjoy unlimited scones, finger sandwiches, pastries, and Rare Tea Co. selections (£75 per person, Champagne upgrade available).
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