Swiss Mountains and Lakes

Last Updated on October 16, 2025

A week of wonder with a Swiss Travel Pass

Do you enjoy travelling by train as much as I do? While planning my first trip to Switzerland, I recalled seeing an advert for Swiss Rail with Roger Federer travelling on a train through the majestic countryside. That’s exactly what I want to do, I thought. Thus, for a week in August, with a Swiss Travel Pass downloaded on my mobile phone, I set off from Geneva for an eco-friendly train trip to explore some of Switzerland’s magnificent mountains and lakes. From the Matterhorn to Montreux, Lucerne to Lausanne, I travelled on some of Switzerland’s iconic trains, sailed across lakes, ascended mountains in gondolas that used cutting-edge technology and descended on cogwheel railways. Want to do the same? Read on…

Why use the Swiss Travel Pass?

The beauty of the Swiss Travel Pass is that you can literally hop on and off trains, buses, boats, funiculars, gondolas, and cable cars. The Swiss Travel Pass also grants free entry to over 500 museums around the country. Switzerland boasts more modes of transport than I’ve encountered previously. The pass made it very easy to move around, particularly as I often had to catch a train, followed by a cable car and a bus to reach my destination. Some of the specialist train trips require a supplement to be paid, especially if you wish to book a seat on the scenic trains that tourists frequent.

Not only does train travel make the trip more eco-friendly, but the Swiss trains are also a convenient way to get around. Many trains arrive at the station ahead of the scheduled departure time, giving travellers plenty of time to find a seat and settle down. Be assured that the train will almost always depart exactly on time. In a week of travel, there was only one occasion when my train was delayed. Swiss train stations always have ramps to access the platforms, so I never had to lug my luggage up and down stairs, as I have done so often on my travels.

There are a range of options when buying a Swiss Travel Pass – first or second class, a saver day pass, or a pass for three, four, six, eight, fifteen days, a month pass, or even a flexible pass which gives you a certain number of travel days within one month.

Overview of my Swiss Travel Pass itinerary

My route with the Swiss Travel Pass took in as much as I thought sensible for a week of travel. From Geneva, I set off for Zermatt to see the mighty Matterhorn, one of the world’s most famous mountains.  I travelled on the renowned Glacier Express to Chur and transferred to Lucerne. Here I was able to visit Mount Pilatus. A further train ride brought me to Interlaken, from where I visited the Jungfraujoch, known as the Top of Europe. A trip on the scenic GoldenPass Express brought me to Lausanne, where I enjoyed activities on and around Lake Geneva. Getting to and from Geneva from London was easy, as it involved using the Eurostar to Paris and then transferring to the TGV express train to Geneva. When I returned home, I felt pretty satisfied with my eco-travel credentials and the absence of airport stress.

Geneva to Zermatt

On arrival in Geneva, you may wish to spend a few days exploring the city, or you could transfer immediately to Zermatt. If, like me, you have already spent a large part of the day travelling to Paris and on to Geneva, you may prefer to stay overnight and be fresh for the next morning of train travel.

Getting to Zermatt from Geneva involves first taking a train from Geneva to Martigny. A half-hour layover gave me time to have a mid-morning tea on the square outside the station. From Martigny, take a train to Visp and then change for the train to Zermatt. While this might sound complicated, these stations are not very large, and the train timetable is well-coordinated for transfers. Using your Swiss Travel Pass, you get on the train. There is no need to book a ticket. From Visp, it is about 70 minutes to Zermatt on the narrow gauge, MGB train – the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn. I was thrilled that the final ascent of the steep mountain gradients took place on a rack track. You can feel the train locomotive’s pinion gears engage with the rack, which is like a set of teeth between the tracks.

This train trip was one of the highlights – and there were many – in a week of travel with my Swiss Travel Pass. I felt like a child filled with the wonders of nature seen for the first time. The scenery became alpine, with high peaks, waterfalls, and a raging river alongside the train tracks. All the way up into the mountains, we passed small alpine villages dotted with chalets and the greenest hillsides, many covered in vineyards. I tried to imagine the scene in winter when all the hills and mountains are covered in snow, yet in the summer it is breathtakingly beautiful. As the train approaches Zermatt, the mountains become monumental.

When the train arrives in Zermatt, you can stow your luggage in the basement lockers and make your way over the narrow street to the Gornergrat Bahn. You are about to travel on the steepest cogwheel train in Europe, which travels further up into the mountains to a station called Gornergrat, from where you have spectacular views of the Matterhorn. Of all the mountain trips I did over the course of the week with the Swiss Travel Pass, this was undoubtedly the one not to be missed. You can buy tickets at the Gornergrat Bahn station – present your Swiss Travel Pass and you get 50% off the fare. Considering that this trip costs 132 Swiss francs for a return ticket, the discount makes quite a difference. The train crawls up a very steep gradient, stopping at tiny stations on the way. Get off at the final stop, Gornergrat. Try to sit on the right-hand side of the train, and you will be rewarded with sublime views of the Matterhorn. It is mind-blowingly beautiful.  I would advise making this trip in the early afternoon, as it avoids the tour bus crowds and gives plenty of time, in summer, to do some hiking if you wish to do so once at the top.

Despite trains running like clockwork in Switzerland, the one unpredictable factor is the weather, so do check the forecast before you set off. We met someone on the mountain who had travelled three hours from Zurich that morning, when the forecast predicted a clear sky at the Matterhorn. It must be very disappointing to find the mountain covered.

Once up at Gornergrat – 3000 meters – you can enjoy magnificent views over twenty-nine, 4000m peaks, which you can identify while looking through a telescope that has the names and heights for each peak. You are also close to the glaciers; it is sadly evident how much they have receded. I found it very moving to be so close to the glaciers and to observe the contrast between them and the brilliantly white, snowy peaks way above.  I recommend walking down the mountain from Gorgenrat – there is a well-marked path – to one of the lower stations, Rotenboden. It is steep with slippery skree at points, so take your time and wear appropriate footwear. The route should take approximately 90 minutes, but you will want to stop every few minutes to take photographs, as the scenery is truly breathtaking. Just below Rotenboden station is a small lake called Raffelsee, in which the Matterhorn is reflected. Unfortunately, it was windy when we got there, and so we did not see the reflection.

If you do decide to walk to Rotenboden, buy a one-way ticket up the mountain (Zermatt-Gorgenrat) and another from Rotenboden back to Zermatt. This will be cheaper than a return ticket Zermatt-Gorgenrat-Zermatt.  If you don’t fancy the hike down from Gorgernrat to the lake, you can get off the train at Rotenboden, and then it’s a 10-minute  walk to the lake. Then catch the next train to continue your journey. In the winter, this area is given over to sledging, which sounds like fun.

The Glacier Express with The Swiss Travel Pass

One of the reasons to travel to Zermatt – aside from seeing the Matterhorn – is to catch the Glacier Express train, which sets off from there. You can also pick up the train further along if you prefer, at Visp. The Glacier Express is a luxurious scenic train that runs from Zermatt to St Moritz, linking two famous resorts. This is an eight-hour trip, so you need to set aside a day for it. We alighted at Chur after a mere five and a half hours to transfer to Lucerne, but had we had more time at our disposal, we could have travelled on to the end of the Glacier Express line at St Moritz. The trip takes you over 291 bridges and through 91 tunnels, up to the Oberalppass, the highest point of the trip at 2033 meters above sea level. A highlight is travelling through the Rhine Gorge, known as the Grand Canyon of Switzerland.

The first hour of the Glacier Express trip retraces the journey up the mountain from Visp to Zermatt, so in that sense it is repetitive. Yet, the scenery is so gorgeous that I did not mind seeing it all again. You need to book well in advance for this train – once again, you’ll receive a discount with the Swiss Travel Pass. The windows are enormous, so no matter where you sit, you see outstanding vistas. That said, the best views are from the right-hand side of the train. However, making sense of the seating plan online proved confusing and complex, and we ended up on the left side despite having booked seats that seemed to be on the right-hand side.

The Glacier Express is undoubtedly a tourist train, and there were tour parties aplenty. Part of the experience is having lunch on the Glacier Express, and many people had ordered food and wine, which was served at their tables. In first class, there are two seats at each table, whereas in second class, there are four. You can also bring your own provisions. Zermatt is well-equipped for self-catering, and by 8 am, we had visited Fuchs Bakery in town and left with a sizable bag of breakfast pastries and a tub of Bircher muesli, along with quiches, apfelstrudel, and a plum tart for lunch. A quick visit to the supermarket added a tasty salad, fruit, and drinks.

The irony of a train called the Glacier Express is that it travels at glacial speed. You could cover the same distance on one of the regional trains in far less time and for far less expense, as you travel free with your Swiss Travel Pass on these trains. However, the Glacier Express is one of those once-in-a-lifetime train trips, and it epitomises slow travel. I had expected the photography opportunities to be exceptional, considering the size of the windows, but the double glazing created a lot of reflection. It is a lesson in learning to sit back and be in the moment as the train traverses valleys and mountain passes, of which there are many.

Lucerne and Mount Pilatus

Lucerne is a picturesque town situated on the River Reuss. The Altstadt (old city) dates back to the 14th century and is very atmospheric, with an abundance of picturesque squares surrounded by elaborately decorated buildings. The river is traversed by Chapel Bridge, Europe’s longest surviving wooden covered bridge. It is a lovely place to walk at sunset before settling into one of the many riverside bars or restaurants. Lucerne is a most charming city, and I would recommend a two-night stay to have time to explore the town. There are several excellent art museums, as well as others on glaciers, transport and chocolate.  Many visitors come to Lucerne primarily to visit Mount Pilatus.

Before arranging this trip, I must admit that I had not heard of Mount Pilatus. It is but one reason for choosing to visit Lucerne, but having experienced it, I would undoubtedly advise doing so. Once again, you need to set aside time for this excursion, as the mountain can be seen from Lucerne, but it is accessed at a distance from the city. There are various ways to go about the visit, and I suggest following the trip as I experienced it.

Get going early in the morning to avoid the tour bus groups. You need to travel by boat to the train station at Alpnachstad, from where you ascend Mount Pilatus, or by bus to the cogwheel railway at Kriens that takes you up Mt Pilatus via a different route. Both the boat and the bus are free with the Swiss Travel Pass. I enjoyed the outbound journey on the boat as it was a relaxing way to start the day, with lovely morning light and scenery along Lake Lucerne. The boat departs from Pier 2, which is located in the centre of Lucerne, and takes 80 minutes. Once the boat docks at Alpnachstad, you need to buy a ticket (discounted with the Swiss Travel Pass) for the cogwheel railway, which is the only way to get to the top of Mount Pilatus from here. I hadn’t realised that we could have pre-booked the train tickets, and I would suggest doing so, as we had to wait until there were free seats available on the train.

The cogwheel railway is thrillingly steep, and at points, you sit overlooking the precipice below. It was more exciting than scary, even for those who fear heights. While much of the last bit of the journey takes place in tunnels, once you are on the top of Mount Pilatus, you will be able to watch the trains snake around the edge of the mountain. It is a triumph of engineering. At the top of the mountain (2070 metres), there are two hotels should you wish to extend your stay. There is a steep slope to climb, from which the views are even more astonishing, offering incredible vistas of Lake Lucerne and numerous 400m peaks in the distance. We could see the Eiger and the Jungfrau mountains, which we would visit another day.

We took a gentle hike along the Flower Path – there were not many flowers to be seen, but an array of small plaques gave the names of plants that were growing. From here, we had a great view of the high-altitude pastures where cows were grazing; later in the season, they would be moved to lower pastures. The sound of the cowbells was like a live concert, especially as we could also hear two distant performers playing long alpine horns, the deeply sonorous sound carrying quite a distance up on the mountain paths. Be sure to take some lovely Swiss snacks with you, as you are bound to get peckish while walking along the mountainside.

To get back down to Lucerne, we first took a 5-minute gondola trip, which descended very steeply.  We got out at an intermediate station, Fräkmüntegg, and transferred to a small cable car for the journey down to Kriens, a suburb of Lucerne. This leg of the journey takes over 30 minutes, is very scenic and beautifully quiet, the silence broken only by cowbells from the farms below. The cable car floats above pine trees and pastures. By this stage in our travels, I had run out of vocabulary to describe the beauty of the scene. The greenery of the valleys was intense, while the land below was dotted with chalets and an occasional church, its distinctive, sharp, narrow steeples standing out. The mountains rising above were austere and watchful, covered in trees or bare rock. Water cascaded down the mountains. Trains with their huge picture windows wound their way up mountainsides and back down into verdant valleys. The air was fresh, the scenery charming and startling, meditative and peaceful.  From the cable car station at Kriens, we walked 10 minutes downhill to catch a local bus into central Lucerne.

Interlaken and Jungfraujoch, Top of Europe

The train trip from Lucerne to Interlaken offers travellers yet more magnificent scenery – eventually, you will run out of superlatives with which to describe the beauty of Switzerland. Using the Swiss Travel Pass, we boarded a regional train at no extra cost. For a few hours, we enjoyed majestic mountain passes, exceptional lakes of azure hue, and rural Alpine scenes.

Arriving in Interlaken, we understood the meaning of the town’s name, which translates as ‘between the lakes’. Interlaken Ost (east) and West are one train stop apart, or a 5-minute bus ride. The two lakes are the Thunsee and the Brienzsee, and you can enjoy lake cruises on both. We did not have time to do so as we chose to spend our afternoon up above the town at Harder Klum. This is a 1,000 m mountain located in the centre of town, accessible via a funicular (discounted with the Swiss Travel Pass). At the top, a restaurant boasts a vast terrace and a viewing platform offering panoramic views over the two lakes, both of which are a deep, turquoise blue. You can also look across into the distance and see the Eiger, Mӧnch and Jungfrau mountains.

These mountains are part of the reason that visitors flock to Interlaken, although there is much else to do there, including skydiving. The Jungfraujoch (joch translates to “saddle”) is a plateau that lies between the Mönch and the Jungfrau mountains. It is marketed as the Top of Europe because it features the highest railway station in Europe, located at an elevation of 3,454 m. It is a hugely popular day out with lots of activities laid on, and the journey to and from is part of the thrill. We were very fortunate to have tickets gifted to us by the Jungfrau Railway Company, as it is an expensive trip. The Swiss Travel Pass provides free access to part of the journey and then offers a discount for the remainder. The discounted ticket price between June and August is 113.90 Swiss Francs. Due to the height of the Jungfraujoch and the surrounding mountains, the weather is unpredictable, and you do run the risk of not seeing much from the top. This happened to us, unfortunately. Many tourists hedge their bets by staying in the area for a few days, allowing them to go on the best day. We only had one day in town, so we had no choice. Despite not seeing much, it was an enjoyable outing, but I won’t deny feeling disappointed.

There are several routes to choose from for visiting Jungfraujoch, known as the Top of Europe. I decided to select a round-trip option that included various modes of transport and the choice of visiting a different town on the way up and back. One of these towns was inaccessible by train on the day we visited, which narrowed down the choice. I would advise making time in your schedule to stop on the way down, as there is much to be seen on the lower slopes.

From Interlaken Ost, we took a train (free with the Swiss Travel Pass) as far as the charming town of Grindelwald. Here we found a most impressive terminal for the Eiger Express tri-cable gondolas. This is the most recent addition to the travel options to Jungfraujoch. The tri-cable gondolas are cutting-edge technology and take 30 minutes off the alternative route, which is a train. The gondolas seat 26 people each, but as we set off very early in the morning to avoid the crowds, there were only four of us. The ride is called the Eiger Express because the gondolas pass very close to the famous north face of the Eiger. Sadly, as we sailed up past this renowned place, we were enveloped in cloud so thick that we could see nothing at all. The gondolas stop at a station called Kleine-Scheidig, which is also where the trains (the alternative travel option) arrive from another town called Kriens. From here, we transferred onto a cog railway all the way up to Jungfraujoch. The route is built through a very long tunnel, and the train stops briefly at 3160m, allowing visitors a 5-minute glimpse of the Eismeer (ice sea) glacier through a glass wall. Then the train continues to the top of Jungfraujoch. I had anticipated feeling a bit breathless at that height, but quickly adapted. There are staff on hand should anyone need a puff of extra oxygen or some assistance.

Upon arrival, the entrance hall resembles a small airport, complete with restaurants and shops; it is undoubtedly a very commercial environment. There are also lots of people. You follow a route around the activities, and there is also the option to go on a hike or take a toboggan ride. The hike was closed during our visit due to inclement weather, but even in ideal weather, you would need proper footwear, as the snow is thick. At that elevation, although it was summer, the temperature was below freezing, so it is essential to dress appropriately.

My favourite part of the visit was the Sphinx Lift, which zips you up an extra 70 metres to an outdoor viewing platform where you should get magnificent views of the Eiger, Mӧnch and Jungfrau mountains. We saw nothing at all. Imagine the frustration of making the effort to travel this far and knowing that behind the swirling clouds lie some of the world’s famous mountain peaks. Since we had booked a four-hour stay at the Top of Europe and brought a flask of hot tea, we decided to bide our time and sit indoors, hoping that the clouds might clear. It was warm inside, and we sipped our tea, waiting. After 90 minutes, our patience was partially rewarded by a fleeting view of the peak of the Mönch and a glimpse of the view down to Interlaken, far below. We also managed to briefly see the Aletsch glacier, which stretched far into the distance. At around 14 miles, it is the longest glacier in Europe. We walked outdoors onto the Glacier Plateau, which is slippery, so make sure you have shoes with thick soles and good grip. Sadly, the clouds would not part, so we had no view.

The rest of the tour takes visitors through an intriguing ice tunnel filled with intricate ice sculptures – once again, this is a very cold space, so come prepared. There is a Lindt shop where you can buy chocolate to your heart’s content. There are a couple of restaurants and a café.

On the way down, we took the cog railway to Kleine Scheidegg and then another one down to Grindelwald, where we stopped for a few hours and enjoyed a hot chocolate. Here, we did get a fabulous view of the lower slopes of the Eiger.

The GoldenPass Express from Interlaken to Montreux

The GoldenPass Express is a scenic train that you would do well to prebook – there is a discount with the Swiss Travel Pass. Similar to the Glacier Express, although a much shorter trip, the views are beautiful, and many people book a food and wine experience to enjoy along the way. At 10 am, a party of six, very loud tourists tucked into wine and beer along with cheese and charcuterie. We had brought along some sandwiches.

By this stage in the trip, we knew what to expect – rivers running through valleys with verdant areas of undulating slopes and a carpet of impossibly green, green. Dotted about were chalets, spread out as if strewn across the landscape. Further up, the pine trees began their steep ascent up the mountainside. With very high peaks, the trees eventually give way to rock. When there is a lake, it is turquoise or deep blue, often still as a mirror. Lakeside villages dot the banks of enormous lakes, and there is the occasional small church with a pointy, narrow steeple. Chalets are bedecked with bright flowers and wooden shutters. There seems to be no end to the number of these beautiful lakes, and the GoldenPass Express passes by some exquisite scenes.

Once in Montreux, we hopped on a local train to Lausanne, where we spent two nights. Lausanne is a captivating city situated on the shores of Lake Geneva. Make your way to the lakeside promenade that runs from Ouchy-port – there is a metro stop, so it is easily accessible. We walked for miles along the lake, finding restaurants and outdoor bars (in the summer), as well as several charming little beaches.

Wanting to make good use of the Swiss Travel Pass, we hopped on a boat that took us on a glorious trip to Montreux, near the end of Lake Geneva. You could choose to hop off at Chillon, where a Medieval castle is located, offering free admission with the Swiss Travel Pass.  After a couple of hours walking around Montreux, famous for its annual July Jazz Festival, we caught the last boat, an old steamer,  back to Lausanne. We returned on the apero boat, so called because it sails into the sunset, and many people brought along champagne and wine to enjoy.

Our last morning was spent using the Swiss Travel Pass to catch a local train from Lausanne to Grandvaux, located high in the Lavaux vineyards, a short distance from the city. We had a self-guided walk through the terraced vineyards, offering spectacular views over the lake. We came across a man in a straw hat, attending a small stall in his vineyard. For 5 Swiss francs, we could sample a glass of wine or grape juice. Gazing over the magnificent vista while sipping a chilled white, I felt on top of the world. I cannot wait to return to Switzerland.

Swiss Travel Pass Fact Box

I was gifted a First Class Swiss Travel Pass, which, for 8 days of travel, costs from CHF 665 (Swiss Francs). Until 31 March 2026, you get one extra day of free travel if you book a 4-day 1st class pass, and two additional days of free travel if you buy an 8-day 1st class pass.

The Swiss Travel Pass includes the cost of the panoramic routes such as the Glacier Express and the GoldenPass Express – you only pay a supplement to reserve a seat. I advise you to book in advance, as these trains are very popular. Booking opens for the panoramic trains three months prior to travel. There is an additional cost for gondolas and cogwheel railways; however, a discount is available when presenting your Swiss Travel Pass.

The Swiss Travel Pass is available to purchase online here

I was gifted a First Class Jungfraujoch Top of Europe Day Ticket, which costs from CHF 211. A Jungfraujoch day ticket is available to buy online here.

You can find out more about the Gornergrat railway trip from Zermatt here

You can find out more about the Glacier Express here

You can find out more about the GoldenPass Express here

You can find out more about visiting Mount Pilatus here

If you want to find out more about the network of trains that are available in Switzerland, you can look at the Swiss Travel Centre website here