A Touch of Thai in Fulham at Thai Square:
(invited press review)
The Thai Square group of restaurants started in 1996 with the opening of their branch in the Strand. They now have 13 restaurants in all, mostly in London alongside Windsor and St Albans, all combining the same offer of delicious Thai food served in authentic surroundings. I was a regular visitor to the Richmond branch of Thai Square in the 90s and it felt like a step up from the typical-of-the-time small local family-run restaurants without the exclusivity of somewhere like the Blue Elephant in Fulham; so I’m pleased to have been asked to review and catch up with what’s going on.
I’ve been invited to the Fulham Thai Square Restaurant which sits in the middle of Fulham Broadway, handily positioned just over the road from the tube. Fulham is very posh these days and the Broadway has a very different feel to when I used to play in a band at the Golden Lion pub in the 1970s and watch Chelsea playing in the old 2nd Division. 
The restaurant is a biggish space with an elegant interior and a stunning gold leaf theme. Stylish Thai artefacts are dotted around the place adding atmosphere. 
Since it’s a weekday, lunchtime cocktails are clearly in order. The Lychini blends lychee and Passoa passion fruit liqueur with champagne in a delightfully well-balanced drink with just a hint of sweetness. The classic Bellini, a mix of peach purée and champagne, is given a hint of bite from the addition of peach schnapps. We’ve been asked to review the Gold Set Menu (£35) from a selection of set and a la carte options. 
A perky tray of mixed vegetarian starters arrived hot, crisp and dry from the fryer. The selection included vegetable spring rolls, some excellent vegetable tempura with a delicious batter, deep-fried sweetcorn patties enlivened by shredded lime leaves, and authentic tasting fried skewers of vegetable and tofu satay. By this point we had moved onto a white wine, a creamy Chilean Montevista Chardonnay from the Maule Valley with a tropical nose and butterscotch and spice notes.
For our mains, we had King prawns in red curry paste, coconut milk, lime leaves, aubergine, bamboo shoots and basil leaves which was rich and creamy with just a mild heat.
But my favourite dish of all was the Golden Soft Shell Crab Batter – fried soft shell crab topped with yellow curry powder, egg, onions and celery. This was one of the best soft shell crab dishes I’ve ever eaten and the first time I’ve had it Thai style. It had tremendous flavour without being hot and a great mix of textures.
Rounding off our feast were some crisp mixed vegetables in a garlic sauce, the sesame taste of Thai Square Noodles- house special egg noodles with bean sprouts topped with sesame seeds and some perfectly cooked steamed Thai jasmine rice.
563 Fulham Rd,
London
SW6 1ES
Tel 020 7386 9900
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