One of the simplest pleasures of holidays in warmer climes for me is beer on the beach. I recently returned from Thailand, and I enjoyed exactly that, perched on a sun-bed, feet buried in warm sand, gazing out to sea with a cold glass of Chang in hand. Bliss. Add a plate of Yam Som-O – juicy pomelo tossed with herbs, chilli, and toasted coconut, a squeeze of lime, and a scattering of crushed peanuts, and you’ve pretty much found the definition of happiness.