Last Updated on November 3, 2022
A remarkable menu in a trendy setting, this Camden steakhouse offers an exceptional dining experience
First opened one year ago, the Black Cow was launched by Israeli pair Shiri Kraus and Amir Batito, already known in the London food scene via the Palomar and The Machneyuda Group respectively. Taking its name from Kraus and Batito’s ‘black sheep’ mentality towards hospitality, the Black Cow is based upon a Hebrew phrase which in English translates to ‘opening a table’ to one’s guests. Located in a food hall-style space on the upper floor of Camden Market’s redeveloped Hawley Wharf, the restaurant takes on an informal and collaborative air, setting it apart from the stuffier atmosphere of some of London’s more traditional steakhouses.
Having already heard of the Black Cow’s growing reputation as a must-visit for carnivores in the capital, I was very pleased to be invited to try their new limited-edition steak and beer pairing menu, launched in collaboration with the local Camden Town Brewery. Across four courses, diners are treated to three courses from the Black Cow kitchen, each paired with new limited-edition beers. The beer is a twist on the traditional wine pairing menu, and we were impressed by the thoughtful selection of beers which complemented the distinct flavours of each course.
Before the food arrives, diners can choose between the well-known and loved Camden Town Brewery classics, the pale ale or Camden Hells lager as their aperitif.
We began our meal with a delicious selection of starters. The ‘nomnoms’ were whitebait with chilli, oregano and cured lemon. A plentiful portion, the crisp and salty fish was perfectly grilled in a richly flavoured sauce. Also playfully named, the ‘Kohlslaw’ is so-called due the replacement of the usual cabbage with kohlrabi which adds a creamy crunch along with the apple and walnuts. The final dish was our favourite – the Husky corn fritters. Crunchy and spiced, the ‘wings’ were incredibly moreish and had us licking our fingers. The starters were paired with Bellini Lager. A peach lager, this light beer includes Nelson Sauvin hops for a wine-like flavour. Fruity and fresh, this beer pairing added an extra set of flavours to an exciting range already experienced in the first part of our meal.
For the second course, we were treated to the main event – 400g of Yeshanim dry age rump steak with sweet harissa fries. Dry aged for 45 days, the steak was succulent, exquisitely tender, and juicy with a deep and rich flavour. The meat was accompanied by a magnificent burnt herb oil sauce along with flaming herbs. The herbs not only made for a truly impressive appearance as they were ignited at the table but added a smoky and charred flavour which provided an extra dimension to the dish. Had the meat not been of such high-quality, the harissa fries could have stolen the show on their own. The sweet chilli and parsley acted as the perfect topping for fries, and I was pleased that the side dish to the steak had clearly not been an afterthought at the Black Cow. The beer pairing was the Goldie lager. A Czech pilsner, this beer had a honeyed flavour but was not overbearing for a course which already had an intensity of flavour.
For dessert, we enjoyed a chocolate cigar with vanilla custard and frozen raspberries – known as the Danny. This course was accompanied by the excitingly unique Ice Cream Vanilla Lager. Sweet and creamy, the beer’s soft foam was an impressive replication of the vanilla ice cream taste which closely matched the vanilla custard accompaniment to the chocolate cigar.
Encompassing the full range of flavours both deep and delicate, the Black Cow offers an exceptional meal not only with its high-quality steak offering but across its varied menu blending Middle Eastern flavours with the American-style grill experience. The new beer pairing is an innovative and enjoyable experience, adding an extra layer to an already exciting offering in Camden.
The beer and steak pairing menu is available until 25th November and is priced at £44.90 per person with an option of £10 extra for four full pints of beer.
Hawley Wharf, Unit 193,
2nd Floor, 3 Camden Lock plc,
London NW1 8AA
Looking for a vegetarian option? We recommend Powerplant at Selina
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