Last Updated on March 30, 2025
Innovative Middle Eastern cuisine and creative cocktails at Helen Graham’s Hot Plates pop up
A stone’s throw from the Thames on Blackfriars Road, the trendy Hoxton Southwark hosts the restaurant Albie, where, for the next few weeks, a rotation of talented chefs will be running pop-up kitchens, presented by the premium gin brand Gin Mare. On 21st March, I was invited to review the pop-up by Helen Graham, formerly the Executive Chef at Bubala – a personal favourite on the London food scene, with branches in Spitalfields and Soho.
Graham is known for her rich Middle Eastern flavours and a focus on vegetarian ingredients – a combination that has made Bubala a resounding hit. Each week, a different cocktail prepared with Gin Mare opens the tasting menu on arrival. Graham’s cocktail was The Spice Route – a mix of Gin Mare, coconut cream, peppercorn marmalade, and soda. We started with the Gin Mare and Tonic, garnished with rosemary and orange peel – delicious and punchy, with a strong hint of botanicals.
The starters included sourdough with salted Baharat date butter, pickled wild strawberry ezme with Jerusalem artichoke, basil, and sumac, and labneh with hawaij tomato confit and curry leaf. The labneh was perfectly smooth, with a burst of sweetness from the confit tomatoes. The ezme was fresh and herby, with a sharp tartness from the pickled strawberries. The salted Baharat date butter was simply luxurious spread over a slice of crusty sourdough.
We also enjoyed sampling more cocktails from the creative menu curated by bartender Daniele, who was happy to explain his process. The Ember and Herb cocktail – made with Gin Mare, tamarind, basil, chili, and lime – was inspired by a South Side, with the tamarind notes shining through. The Rib, Rake & Records cocktail – a delicious combination of Gin Mare, Campari, soy vermouth, and smoked salts – was based on a negroni. Created to pair with soy sauce in an upcoming Chinese kitchen pop-up, the smoked salts hit your nose before your lips touched the glass.
From the mains, the whole roasted cauliflower with bkeila cream and matchstick black lime fries was exceptional. Like tucking into a steak, the cauliflower melted in the mouth, and the rich sauce was comforting and sophisticated. The tangy lime on the fries was the perfect flourish.
The slaw – with fennel, coconut, marmalade, and cumin – was also excellent, topped with a dash of sesame seeds and the familiar tang of lime.
With just enough space for dessert, we tucked into the carrot, lemongrass, and rosewater halva – a delicious, sweet treat to end a superb meal, accompanied by a cup of fresh mint tea and a decaf espresso.
The opening weekend of Hot Plates at the Hoxton was a great evening out in a swish location, with an innovative menu that showed exactly why Helen Graham has such a top reputation. Future Hot Plates dates at The Hoxton Southwark promise a similarly exciting combination of talented chefs, creative cocktails, and comfortable surroundings.
40 Blackfriars Rd,
London SE1 8NY
02079033000
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