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Perfect Pesto

April 30, 2018 by Fiona Maclean 22 Comments

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Last Updated on December 6, 2018 by Fiona Maclean

Italians do it better –  Pesto World Championships, Genoa, Italy:

It stands to reason that Italians should make the best Pesto in the World. A simple fusion of two kinds of cheese, garlic, basil, olive oil, pine nuts and salt sounds on the face of it like something that could easily be recreated anywhere.  But, each ingredient has its own rightful place in the Italian larder – four out of seven are PDO, only grown in specific regions.   So important is pesto to Ligurian cuisine that “pestle and mortar pesto sauce” has applied to join UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage List.  As I discovered on a recent trip to Genoa, the method of making pesto in a pestle and mortar is an art in its own right.

The World Championships are a biannual event, founded ten years ago by Roberto Panizza.

Finalists in action

The catalyst – a dying tradition – pesto made in a pestle and mortar seems to have embodied Italian life for Roberto – the idea that children learnt how to make pesto by their mother’s side, much as I learnt how to make the crumb for an apple crumble.   I was allowed to make crumble because I couldn’t spoil it too easily (though I was kept well away from the puff pastry), while an Italian child would have learnt how to pound basil with pine nuts, garlic, olive oil, salt and cheese to make a fresh, rich, green paste to serve with trofie or gnocchi or even to eat with a crust of bread. And so, there’s a children’s event – with children as both contestants and judges.

Finalist world pesto championships

Finalists in action

Traditional mortars were crafted with love and handed down from generation to generation.  One of this year’s finalists, Alda Bernardelli, was using the mortar that her grandfather made for her grandmother.  She’d inherited not just her grandmother’s mortar but also her name – so the hand-carved mortar with personalised inscription was entirely appropriate.

Having caught a glimpse of the children’s event held in an adjacent room, I move on to watch as a hundred competitors, not just from Genoa or even Italy but from around the world line up to make their own version of Pesto.

Team Pesto

While some had hired their pestle and mortar, others are there with their own secret weapons.  Though, I quickly discover, size is definitely not everything in the world of Pesto.  In fact, competitors are judged on five distinct criteria.

  • The cleanliness and tidiness of the workstation, the use of the mortar
  • The appearance of the pesto (colour rather than any clear liquid)
  • The fineness of the ground leaves
  • The consistency of the pesto – too many pine nuts will make a gelatinous mixture for instance
  • The balance of ingredients.

Each criterion has a weighting.  Making pesto in a mortar is an art – not just a question of pounding everything till you get a green mush.

Finalists in action

In fact, the mortars all have four small lip-like handles – the proper technique is to pound and turn the mortar regularly.  If you are right handed, you’ll rotate the pestle from left to right against the side of the mortar and simultaneously rotate the mortar in the opposite direction (from right to left), using the handles.

Waiting for the entrants

Once the event gets going there’s some fierce rotating going on – some of the competitors verge on the athletic and are almost spinning the mortar while they crush.  I’m transfixed – and oh-so-glad I didn’t volunteer to enter!  For those interested in doing so, there are regional heats all around the world.  This is serious stuff!

Pesto World Championships in Action

As the competition gets into full swing, a heady aroma of garlic and basil fills the air.  It actually makes me feel quite hungry, but thankfully the process doesn’t take that long.  If you spend too much time preparing your pesto it oxidises and becomes bitter.  The competitors finish, some decorating the rim of their mortar with tiny leaves of the PDO Genoese basil.

Pesto - done

Everyone waits, while the judges fill in their scoring sheets – each tasting two sets of five competitors so that selection of the finalists is as unbiased as possible.

Sharing Tips

For those interested, here’s the recipe the competitors use as their base.

5 from 5 votes
Print
Traditional Pesto from Genoa
Prep Time
30 mins
Total Time
30 mins
 
Course: Condiment
Servings: 6
Author: Pesto World Championships
Ingredients
  • 4 bunches Fresh PDO Genoese Basil This basil has a smaller leaf than the type we see in the supermarket here. You could try growing it from seed, but the PDO status reflects the impact of terroir on this product
  • 30 g Italian pine nuts or Pinoli
  • 45-60 g Parmesan cheese Grated
  • 20-40 g Pecorino Sardo Sardinian Pecorino - Grated
  • 1-2 clove Garlic From Vessilico- a small town in Liguria that produces a uniquely sweet garlic
  • 10 g Coarse Salt
  • 60-80 ml PDO Extra Virgin Olive Oil From the Italian Riviera
Instructions
  1. Wash the basil leaves in cold water and dry them on a tea towel or kitchen paper. Take care not to rub them. Most of the competitors seemed to discard the stems
  2. Crush the garlic clove and pine nuts in the mortar until they are smooth.
  3. Add a few grains of salt and a handful of the basil leaves. Pound the mixture using a light, circular motion, pressing the pestle against the wall of the mortar and turning it in the opposite direction.
  4. Repeat the process till all the basil has been crushed and has started to drip a bright green liquid

  5. Add in the cheeses and blend with the mortar
  6. Pour in a drizzle of oil and blend lightly until the consistency is something a little thicker than double cream, but thinner than a 'paste'

Like everything in Italy though, the ‘right’ way to make pesto is a family secret.  The order you add the ingredients, the quantities and the amount you crush the leaves is at least partly down to personal taste.  Freshly made pesto in Genoa tastes very different from the type you buy in jars at the supermarket or even from an Italian specialist retailer.

Sharing Tips

While the judges make their way around the tables, competitors and audience disperse, leaving the grand hall of the Palazzo Ducale strangely quiet.  I make my way to a local restaurant, avoiding the temptation to order a dish with yet more pesto and instead choosing a comforting bowl of trofie with saffron and sausage.  It all feels slightly surreal.

World Pesto Championships Tradition

Back in the Palazzo, the scores are being added up and the finalists decided.  The hall fills up again, with anxious competitors, friends and family.  The finalists are called out one by one and line up at the front.  This time, they are very much ‘centre stage’.

Another round of pesto making – this time we are only watching the experts and there seems to be rather less variation.  No-one is particularly flamboyant, the mortar pounding phase seems considered and calculated.  And, everyone is very, very serious.

Finalists in action

The judges hover, observing every move of the contestants while we watch from the sidelines. Then, it’s all over and we retreat while the final pestos are tasted and scores are added up.

The winner, Alessandra Fasce, is a 36-year-old assistant cook from Genoa.  If I’m not mistaken I thought I saw her crying when she was picked as a finalist and now there’s definitely a tear in her eye as she’s handed the golden pestle.  I’m really charmed – she looks embarrassed, thrilled and genuinely shocked to have won.

Finalist world pesto championships

It’s all over for another two years.  I’m not sure I’ll be ready to enter even then.  It seems to me that to make the winning pesto you need to start at a very early age.  And practice.

Why not pin the recipe for later…it’s child’s play – honest!

Easy Traditional Pesto Recipe

Or if you just fancy going along to watch, why not pin this for later

Genoa and Cinque Terre

I was a guest of the Ligurian Tourist Board

For further information on Liguria please visit www.turismoinliguria.it
For further information on the Pesto Championships please visit www.pestochampionship.it. The next championships will take place in 2020.
Flights
Return flights from London Gatwick to Genoa start from £95 with British Airways. (0844 493 0787)
Accommodation
One night B&B in a classic double room at President Genoa starts from £70 for two people. (00800 0022 0011)

 

5 from 5 votes
Print
Traditional Pesto from Genoa
Prep Time
30 mins
Total Time
30 mins
 
Course: Condiment
Servings: 6
Author: Pesto World Championships
Ingredients
  • 4 bunches Fresh PDO Genoese Basil This basil has a smaller leaf than the type we see in the supermarket here. You could try growing it from seed, but the PDO status reflects the impact of terroir on this product
  • 30 g Italian pine nuts Pinoli (Take care not to buy the cheaper Chinese version, which taste slightly metallic. Look for an italian supplier who sells Pinoli instead)
  • 45-60 g Parmesan cheese Grated
  • 20-40 g Pecorino Sardo Sardinian Pecorino - Grated
  • 1-2 clove Garlic From Vessilico- a small town in Liguria that produces a uniquely sweet garlic
  • 10 g Coarse Salt
  • 60-80 ml PDO Extra Virgin Olive Oil From the Italian Riviera
Instructions
  1. Wash the basil leaves in cold water and dry them on a tea towel or kitchen paper. Take care not to rub them. Most of the competitors seemed to discard the stems
  2. Crush the garlic clove and pine nuts in the mortar until they are smooth.
  3. Add a few grains of salt and a handful of the basil leaves. Pound the mixture using a light, circular motion, pressing the pestle against the wall of the mortar and turning it in the opposite direction.
  4. Repeat the process till al the basil has been crushed and has started to drip a bright green liquid
  5. Add in the cheeses and blend with the mortar
  6. Pour in a drizzle of oil and blend lightly until the consistency is something a little thicker than double cream, but thinner than a 'paste'

Filed Under: Italy, Recipes, side dish, Travel, Vegetarian Tagged With: Artisan, Heritage, Italian, Liguria, PDO, pesto

About Fiona Maclean

London based freelance writer and marketing consultant. I edit London-Unattached.com and write for a number of other publications. With a music degree and a background in marketing across many sectors, my passions include all types of music, food, restaurants, wine and travel

Comments

  1. Daisy de Plume says

    March 10, 2020 at 2:20 pm

    I love it that Alessandra had tears in her eyes when she won! Charming indeed. Last we were in Genoa an older lady suggested we add walnuts for variation in our pesto, too.

    Reply
  2. sarah grainger says

    January 28, 2019 at 7:08 pm

    I absolutely love pesto and will be trying this recipe

    Reply
  3. Margaret Clarkson says

    January 13, 2019 at 3:23 pm

    This is fascinating. I never thought about such a competition.

    Reply
  4. Pamela Anderson says

    July 31, 2017 at 12:17 pm

    Nice recipe and dish is so yummy. I am looking for some destinations,restaurants and holiday apartment rental in Italy and your blog is quite helpful.

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      July 31, 2017 at 12:24 pm

      Hi, we’ve actually reviewed a fabulous holiday apartment in Liguria already

      Reply
  5. sharon roberts says

    January 13, 2017 at 11:54 am

    Fresh pesto! so much better to make it yourself than buy a jar. Its one of those items that deserves to be made fresh.. and stirred in your favourite pasta. for a simple dish.

    Reply
  6. Valentin says

    May 27, 2016 at 10:29 am

    Thank you for that recipe ! Making my own pesto is something I really want to try for years. I attend a lot of cooking sessions as I work for an events promotion company in London, but we always use industrial pesto on our recipes, it would be interesting to make our own.

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      July 31, 2017 at 12:26 pm

      Using a pestle and mortar makes for quite a different mixture to the type you create in a blender. Do have a go!

      Reply
  7. Stevie Wilson says

    May 5, 2016 at 4:00 am

    What a great event to attend! Wow.. I love that you provided lots of details on the ins and outs of making pesto. I would never have known all this goes into it!

    Reply
  8. Bernard Tan says

    May 2, 2016 at 5:38 pm

    This is very interesting! I didnt know that they have a competition for that, and what more a Children’s competition! That is an awesome way to keep the culture alive.

    Reply
  9. Carol Colborn says

    May 2, 2016 at 12:12 pm

    How interesting to find out about this one-of-a-kind cooking competition! Pesto is one of those great culinary inventions! With a children’s competition to boot!

    Reply
  10. Elaine Masters says

    May 2, 2016 at 12:52 am

    Loved this experience! So great that children were included. Thanks too for the recipe. I’ve got to remember to not grind too much too. So love pesto.

    Reply
  11. Fiona Maclean says

    May 1, 2016 at 10:59 pm

    I think the main thing is to make your pesto fresh – and preferably by hand. The basil oxidises quite quickly so make sure you either use it up or cover it with a layer of oil.

    Reply
  12. Tammy on the Move says

    May 1, 2016 at 7:14 pm

    How ironic. I have literally just had a plate of pasta with pesto. My husband is half Italian, so it is his favourite. I have to admit that we always use ready made pesto, but looking at those Ladies in your photos, I would love to learn from them how to make it from scratch.

    Reply
  13. Curious Claire says

    May 1, 2016 at 12:37 pm

    Wow that’s so fun and quirky. What a cool way to spend the day. Thanks for sharing this 🙂

    Reply
  14. Brianna Simmons says

    May 1, 2016 at 4:40 am

    Pesto is one of my favorite Italian sauces, where do I sign up to be a judge?

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      May 1, 2016 at 11:01 pm

      LOL Brianna, now they have regional contests for entrants, but I suspect all the judges are from Genoa!

      Reply
  15. Christina says

    May 1, 2016 at 2:42 am

    I learned so much in this post! I had no idea pesto had so many intricacies. I really like the idea of including children in competition. I think it helps ensure that the traditional way of making pesto can be passed on from generation to generation.

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      May 1, 2016 at 11:01 pm

      It is charming isn’t it! But so Italian to make it such a family event

      Reply
  16. Howard | Backroad Planet says

    April 30, 2016 at 8:21 pm

    Wow, Fiona! Who knew such a simple recipe could become so complex? I cannot imagine competing nor being a judge in the Pesto World Championships with such similar ingredients and procedures. But I am sure I would love all of the recipes, especially the one you shared!

    Reply
    • Fiona Maclean says

      May 1, 2016 at 11:00 pm

      I was too much of a wimp to take part. The technique is harder than it looks

      Reply
  17. Natalie says

    April 30, 2016 at 5:30 pm

    That really looks cool! What a fun, cultural experience to have in Italy, not to mention the fact that you get to learn how to make some good pesto. I am definitely interested in learning as well. I’ll have to save this article for the directions 🙂

    Reply

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