Last Updated on April 26, 2024
Greek Plates and Wine in Holland Park
The last time I was in the space that this Modern Greek Taverna inhabits on Holland Park Avenue, (many moons ago) it was, a burger place called Tootsies and I was working as a waitress, dodging burger orders, and flashing smiles. As I entered Vori, it was as if the universe had pressed rewind on my memories, but with a twist – this time, the air was filled with the aroma of Greek delights and the promise of a culinary adventure.
Located within the lush environs of West London’s Holland Park district, Vori has made its mark since opening just over a year ago. Helmed by the three Tsimikalis brothers, renowned as the visionary minds behind the beloved Hungry Donkey in Spitalfields, the restaurant draws inspiration from their cherished memories of Andros, a Cycladic gem, for which it is named.
We were welcomed by warm and friendly staff and sat downstairs alongside a happy buzz of fellow customers. Its modern interior features lofty ceilings and a cosy mezzanine seating area, wood panelling and vibrant splashes of terracotta and cobalt blue are enhanced by a grey-speckled marble tile floor, sleek zinc tabletops, and sumptuous olive-green leather and wood banquettes.
Vori delivers an immersive journey into the heart of Greek cuisine, with a menu that boasts a rich tapestry of authentic rustic dishes sourced from across Greece, each crafted with fresh seasonal ingredients’ dishes, many of which are cooked over charcoal. Complementing this culinary adventure is a thoughtfully curated selection of indigenous Greek wines, ranging from organic to natural, carefully selected to highlight the region’s diverse terroirs.
The cocktail menu also has strong Greek influences. We began with a Negroni Sour, Ouzo no.7 Callicounis Amara Bitter and Vermouth, egg white, orange juice and lemon, creating a lovely balance of citrus sweetness, and aniseed with a hint of warmth from the Vermouth. Plus, a delightful glass of Karanikas Cuvée Speciale Brut, Xinomavro 2022, Macedoni, with good acidity and notes of grapefruit.
Here at Vori, you eat as the Greeks do, with sharing plates which come out as and when they are ready. First to arrive was a colourfully plated ‘Salata Vori’ with vibrant chicory and radicchio leaves, heritage beets, and the gritty crunch of walnuts, topped with fragrant fresh herbs and a tangy dressing with a hint of sweetness…delicious!
The Fava Santorini unlike the classic fava bean dip, is made with fava split peas, it was quite dense but brought to life by the tartness of capers, and rich smokiness from the eel.
Moving onto an excellent bottle of Orealios Gaea, Truth Organic Robola 2022, Cephalonia – crisp and mineral with earthy notes.
Next a nicely charred souvlaki pork skewer – tender chunks of meat with a touch of spice, fresh off the grill served with creamy tzatziki and a smoky paprika dressing.
The mastelo deep-fried parcels, adorned with sesame seeds and drizzled with chilli honey, were a delight. Each bite transported me to the sun-kissed shores of the Greek Islands, a heavenly combination of crisp filo pastry and moist mastelo cheese – halloumi’s upmarket sister.
The Garides Scharas were fabulous – a generous plate of juicy prawns with a wonderful char, doused in hot oil, tarragon, and chilli.
Followed by a whole grilled sea bass, charred with pleasingly sweet white flesh and a side of Skordalia – a Greek speciality of deliciously garlicky potato mousse, served cold and some lush green chard.
Despite already satisfying our appetites, we couldn’t resist one final indulgence—a dish I adore whenever I’m in Greece. The Giaourti Greek yoghurt boasted a luxurious creaminess and richness. Enhanced with the delicate aroma of wild thyme and topped with an irresistible pistachio crumb, it was a fitting conclusion to our culinary journey at Vori.
Vori serves great Greek food and wine at reasonable prices. I’m fortunate enough to live nearby, so, I’m already planning to return soon. However, if you happen to find yourself in the area, be sure give to visit this charming neighbourhood Greek restaurant, for breakfast lunch or dinner.
Vori is open from Tuesday through Sunday for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Vori Greek Kitchen,
120 Holland Park Avenue,
London W11 4UA
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