Chourangi, Marble Arch

Last Updated on October 17, 2022

Bringing the food of Calcutta to London – Chourangi.

 In London, it’s quite possible to live life vicariously, as close to being an international traveller as it gets, without leaving The Old Smoke. Travel to Lima or to France, Sri Lanka or South Africa through your palate and enjoy the flavours and aromas of places you may never have visited. With Indian restaurants the opportunities are sublime. The days of curry houses serving Chicken Tikka Masala, while not entirely wiped off the City map, have been superseded by places that rightly reflect the regional dishes of this immense and historic country.  I’m getting to know a lot more about Indian food without a whisper of jet lag – and I’m loving it. I was delighted to be invited to visit Chourangi, a restaurant just round the corner from Marble Arch that takes its name from Chowringhee in Calcutta, which opened just a year ago for a new take on this remarkable culinary destination.

The cuisine of Calcutta or Kolkata as it is now known is truly international in its own right. You’ll find influences from the British, Dutch, French and Portuguese dating back to the time when the City was the headquarters of the East India Company (1773) and even before then.  And, there’s a strong Chinese influence dating back to the late 18th century when Chinese immigrants in Bengal arrived as labourers, sailors and traders, and gradually settled in this vibrant city.  I’ve tried a few dishes before like Tangra Chilli Chicken, where there are definite Chinese influences and loved every fragrant fusion mouthful.

This time though, after a special and delicious pink peppercorn and pineapple jam laced margarita made with reposado tequila and triple sec, Cobra beer and bar bite of smoked chilli poppadum with homemade chutney and rather unusual and delicious ‘crackling spinach’, I wanted something different.

My choice was banana flower croquettes with a mint-kasundi, coconut and cinnamon sauce.  A real Bengal delicacy that you might also see listed as Mochar Chop.  I’ve eaten a banana flower curry in Sri Lanka – one of the best dishes I tried there – and I was keen to see whether this recipe was as good.  Definitely one to try again, the banana flowers make a light yet beautifully fragrant croquette.  It’s the kind of starter that leaves you feeling as if the edge has been taken off your appetite, without being in the least bit heavy.  I loved the dipping sauce too.

Kasundi Paneer Tikka is mustard-coated paneer cooked in a tikka oven or sometimes steamed in a banana leaf.  While it might not win a beauty contest, it’s another moreish dish, although in retrospect perhaps we might have done better to choose a dish without the piquant kasundi (a Bengal mustard sauce made with tomato, mustard seeds, white vinegar, cayenne pepper and garlic), particularly when there were some really unusual options on the menu like lotus stem sweet potato chaat and the aforementioned Tangra chilli dishes.  That just means I need to go back!

The Chourangi menu is nicely laid out with dishes that are house specialities highlighted. Daak Bungalow Chicken Curry was my choice.  A rich tomato-based sauce with fenugreek, mace and cashew nuts made for a delicious, comforting mouthful.  It dates back to the days of the British Raj.   Around 150 years ago the daak or mail routes across India had rest stop bungalows across the hill stations where mail carriers, officials and passing British Army officers alike would stop for some respite.  Perfect with steamed basmati rice and with our side orders of Kasundi salad and onion, lime and chillies.  Next time I’ll be ordering the Grand Trunk Black Dal too!

My companion’s tiger prawn Malai curry was fragrant with coconut and spices and full of plump, tender prawns.

We did over-order rice – one portion between two would have been plenty – and as mentioned, I forgot the Dal – there are two on the menu at Chourangi and I regret missing out on one of my favourite treats.

But, I didn’t forget to order kulfi for dessert – that silky sweet Indian ice – here in fragrant saffron and pistachio flavour.  It’s a great indulgence at the end of a meal and less filling than some of the cakes and puddings.

Baked Sondesh Tart, a curd cheese dish with date molasses and pecan nuts served with a side of coconut ice cream was delicious too.  Sondesh is another Bengali speciality made by flavouring and thickening milk before using an acid (vinegar) to produce curds that can be made into a kind of sweet cheese.  I loved the pairing with coconut ice cream – a perfect light accompaniment.