Compagnie Des Vins Surnaturels, Seven Dials

Last Updated on March 29, 2024

Paris, London – A little corner of France in Covent Garden.

Since I’ve lived in London, Covent Garden has changed.  Once as hip as Shoreditch, it was a regular hangout for me.  I bought herbs from Culpepper, and cheese from Neal’s Yard Dairy, I ate at Cafe des Amis du Vin or at Le Garrick.  By the time Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels arrived in London in 2014 the main market had already evolved into a real tourist destination, with street entertainers, high street chains and some rather pricy bars and cafes.  But, to this day, there are hidden squares and alleys that are still packed with independent shops and quirky restaurants.  Neal’s Yard, the home of Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels is one such hidden treasure. 

It’s set in a charming space where you’ll find the original Neal’s Yard Dairy, St John’s Bakery and the sweet-scented Neal’s Yard Remedies amongst the retailers.  All success stories that have somehow managed to expand without losing their identity, much as Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels, which first opened in Paris and now has four branches as far apart as London and New York.  Those of you who know and love Paris will feel right at home in this quirky wine bar, the perfect place to explore and learn about hundreds of wines from small, independent producers from France and more.

While I have visited before for a drink or three, I have never tried the food at Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels and was thrilled to be asked to try one of their monthly tasting series dinner menus.  A snip at £35 pp for 6 courses, the menu for March explored the terroir of the Loire – with wine suggestions from the sommelier to match each course at an additional price, it’s a fantastic opportunity to enjoy some delicious and innovative dishes that somehow seem to epitomise the theme.  But first, a glass of Champagne, not from one of the big houses but from Moussé, a fourth generation family run vineyard in the Marne Valley with  just 9.5 hectares and an annual production of 6,100 cases.  They are Pinot Meunier led – our bottle was 70% Pinot Meunier and 30% Pinot Noir and was aged on lees for 30 months. 

With a pronounced minerality and a fine mousse, it was excellent as an aperitif – and worked nicely with my amuse bouche of a Maldon oyster served with a muscadet and chevril foam. The only disappointment for me was that there was just one – I could happily have feasted on 6 or more.  My companion, who doesn’t eat shellfish, enjoyed a quail scotch egg instead.

Next up, tiny rabbit croquettes with a puree of pruneaux d’Agen.  Another delicious mouthful with the full flavoured tender rabbit filling complemented perfectly by the sweet sticky prune puree and the crisp crumb shell.  To pair, a glass of 100% Sauvignon Blanc wine, Les Jardins de Theseiis ‘Jardin du Poira’ Blanc 2019.  This wine, from Paul-André Risse and Anouk Lavoie-Amoureux, biologists who took over the organic and biodynamic vineyards of Bruno Allion in Touraine, is a well balanced and full bodied mouthful with lime, mint and raisin notes that worked nicely with the  croquettes.

We learnt that the Pâté en Croute was made in house.  Apparently, chef Ranieri Raimondi had considered importing, but in the end decided to create his own version of this French classic. 

Remarkably authentic, I loved the chunky duck-rich filling with a small helping of truffled Madeira compote and some Dijon mustard to accompany it.  The bread is worth mentioning, a sourdough that is sent part baked from Coombe Farm in Devon and finished in-house, delicious and crunchy with that depth of flavour you only get from properly aged sourdough.

By now we had moved on to Ciel Rouge, Michel Autran, a super dry and classy Chenin Blanc from Vouvray.  Excellent wine for those looking to pair a white wine with pâté, it was rich and full bodied with good acidity and notes of apple, apricot and fresh herbs. 

Asparagus came with a light goat cheese sauce and toasted hazelnuts to add textural interest and a nutty flavour.  This was another delicious flavour combination and one I will be trying to make at home!

Our ‘main course’ was a delicious portion of grilled seabass with a beurre blanc, Exmoor caviar and nutty roasted baby potatoes.  Perfectly cooked fish was nicely coated in the beurre blanc and the potatoes were tender and full of flavour.

At this point, we were offered a glass of a light red wine.  Hey Gro is almost a cult wine, a lightly macerated Grolleau (an indigenous Loire Valley grape) which is whole bunch fermented and aged in old French barriques.  It’s 9% – light and easy to drink, the work of François Saint-Lô.  My companion reacts very badly to red wines of any sort so for her, a Pavillon Anjou Blanc 2020.

Dessert, a classic and beautifully executed tarte tatin with Chantilly cream came with more champagne to wash it down before we rolled out into a rainy Covent Garden!

Now, the special food evenings happen on one evening a month (for April 2024 it will be on the 18th), but you can order food from a selection of small plates, sharing cheese and charcuterie boards and main courses.  I suspect you’ll find it hard to leave without smiling.  We certainly loved our meal and wines and can heartily recommend Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels.  While we’d anticipated some delicious and unusual wines, the quality and provenance of the food shone through and I’m already regretting not having revisited earlier!