Last Updated on November 3, 2026
Fenix Mayfair on the Rise
4.5 out of 5.0 stars
High-end contemporary Greek restaurant Fenix Mayfair sits just around the corner from Green Park tube on Piccadilly. Head Chef Zisis Giannouras has developed a new seasonal menu, which we have been asked to review that combines traditional elements with ‘subtle Japanese, Peruvian and French influences.’
I had a Greek grandmother and am a great lover of Greek food, so I wanted to see whether these global updates on what is a very traditional cuisine made sense.
Fenix’s interior is ‘rustic chic.’ Low level Aegean beats create a soundtrack for a space that in the evening is a cross between a low-lit nightclub and a sexy taverna. With wooden beams, arches, striking-looking straw light shades, red tiles and lots of greenery, it’s certainly warm and inviting.
There’s also a dining counter that overlooks the open kitchen which adds atmosphere.
Drinks are always on my menu, and a glass of Laurent Perrier Blanc de Blanc with its trademark blend of citrus and crisp minerality was as reliable as ever. More interesting was the Truffle Negroni made with 12-year-old truffled Metaxa brandy, Ottos Athens vermouth and Campari. It was a smoother, gentler drink than a classic Negroni, with the truffle smoothing off some of the drink’s trademark bitterness.
From the Spreads Menu, came with a deliciously light and creamy tzatziki, lifted by a hint of spearmint rather than the usual mint and all mopped up with some hot and fluffy Pita bread. Grilled chunks of aubergine flesh were studded with red pepper and topped with a refreshing feta ice cream. Both dishes were cleverly executed upgrades on classics.
From the Cold Menu, I loved the tuna, truffle and caviar tartare: a collation of tomato salsa and coriander yoghurt, raw tuna, caviar and a Jalapeno cream all dressed with a yuzu, soy and truffle oil sauce. This dish, often disappointingly bland, was a triumph; spicy, fresh and complex. The mineral and white apple flavours of an Assyrtiko ‘Familia’ Hatzidakis from Santorini was a good match.
Moussaka is a Greek staple and at Fenix it sits in the Meze Menu. The chef has deconstructed the dish so spiced short rib came topped with meltingly caramelised aubergine and a pool of Graviera cheese on the side. A classic Burgundy Chablis from Brocard, ‘Domaine Ste Claire’, had enough body to stand up to the richness of the moussaka.
From the Open Fire Menu a 200g beef fillet was tender, tasty and served ‘bleu’ as requested. The accompanying black olive and beef jus was gorgeous and was all mopped up with cumin perfumed mash.
Grilled octopus was soft, full of char flavour and prettily served on an ironically ‘smashed’ plate. I really enjoyed the earthiness of a Fava bean purée with a parsley vinaigrette adding welcome acidity. There are also Pasta and Rice and Sharing Menus if you’re interested.
I was planning to skip dessert, having had two million Tiramisus in the last few weeks. However, I was seduced by another deconstructed dish. A huge swirl of glorious frozen Greek yoghurt was paired with Loukoumades (deep-fried doughnut balls), candied walnuts, berries and shards of Filo pastry. I am ashamed to say that we finished it.
The original Fenix is in Manchester if you are in that neck of the woods, but I’m really impressed with the quality and integrity of the cooking in the Mayfair branch. There are many ways to recontextualise Greek cuisine. Head Chef Zisis Giannouras has chosen the path of subtle reinvention rather than anything more dramatic, and in this location, that is a smart move. The restaurant is perfect for a hot date or a social or business outing and offers a welcome change from the plethora of Italian restaurants that are so ubiquitous.
Fenix Mayfair
Stratton House, 80 Piccadilly, London, W1J 8HX
020 37781986
If you’re looking for somewhere different try Bamboo Mat in Canary Wharf.
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