Last Updated on March 29, 2024
Classic Dining in the Heart of Soho
A firm favourite with so many of my friends, L’Escargot is one of London’s oldest restaurants. It’s a London legend – a French restaurant established in 1896 by M Georges Gaudin on Greek Street, which proved so popular for the snails served there, that the restaurant moved a little up the road to larger premises. Renamed L’Escargot after the popular dish, the place was famous not just for the food but for having its own snail farm in the basement. It’s a Soho institution that I’ve known all my adult life – refurbished many times but somehow never losing that special place in my heart. A plaster bust of M. Gaudin riding a snail with the motto “slow and sure” is to this day on display outside the restaurant. I was particularly charmed when in 2014 my old boss was part of the team that took over l’Escargot – Laurence Isaacson was an unforgettable part of my early working life, a bon vivant who worked his magic on so many London restaurants. He sadly died in 2018, but his business partner, restaurateur Brian Clivaz still runs l’Escargot.
For me, l’Escargot is all about classic dishes served elegantly in an eclectic setting. The restaurant is housed in an 18th-century Georgian townhouse that dates back to 1741 and was one of the first houses to be built in Soho. With winding staircases, a cornucopia of furnishings and a fabulous collection of art, it still feels as if it could be a private residence. Upstairs there are a series of private dining rooms and on the top floor The Snail Bar, with live music events and a pianist on Fridays and Saturdays. For a while, l’Escargot ran a small members club and my own business partner was a member, so we had a base for London meetings. We knew each and every one of the rooms very well. Now the kitchen is led by Head Chef, James Tyrrell, who comes from Claridge’s Hotel and trained at Langan’s Brasserie heads up the kitchen. James, known as “Jimmy”, has a love of classic French food, and loves to work with seasonal produce from independent suppliers. You’ll find more about many of their suppliers on the back of the menu, from Wiltshire truffles to Aberdeen Angus beef from Campbell Brothers, Bonnyrigg.
On this occasion, seated by the window in the main dining room, we were greeted with a glass of Henriot Brut Souverain while we settled down to choose what to eat from the menu. With advice from our helpful waiter, we ordered a selection of seasonal and classic dishes that really summed up the essence of L’Escargot. The champagne itself deserves a mention – it’s a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir, from Grand and Premier Cru vineyards with a high proportion of reserve wines, giving a nicely rounded mouth feel – it’s not one you’ll find often on menus in London. In fact, the entire wine menu is French. Perfect for my companion who is something of an oenophile.
Breads appeared and despite my best intentions I ended up feasting on the rather delicious ‘snail bread’ – a kind of spiral of truffled brioche that really didn’t need the addition of any butter at all.
To start we ordered snails (of course) and lobster bisque. The snails come served in a classic cast iron dish, smothered in herb and garlic butter. It’s a delicious mixture that complements the morsels of charcoal flesh that you extract with a tiny snail fork from each shell. Save enough space for a piece of baguette to mop up the butter – and forget any idea of counting calories. We asked if the snails were still farmed in the basement. The ‘Helix pomatia’ are sourced from ‘l’Escargot Anglais’, an organic snail farm in Herefordshire. So, British snails in a French restaurant. Vive la difference!
My companion’s rich lobster bisque topped with fresh chives, was a 70s classic – and one he really enjoyed. A deliciously creamy soup with a deep stock base was a great autumnal dish.
To drink, at the suggestion of our waiter, we enjoyed a glass each of Petit Chablis William Fèvre, a citrusy and minerally white with a good finish.
It’s the game season. On my last visit to L’Escargot, we both enjoyed grouse (which is exactly what you should do if you visit in mid-August when the first young birds have arrived!). This time, I opted for roast partridge – probably one of my favourite early autumn dishes. Served with a classic bread sauce, game chips and a rich jus, it was one of those simple but delicious options.
My companion took the advice of our waiter and ordered a fillet of beef ‘Rossini’, a rich, decadent dish made with filet mignon, pan-fried in butter and served on a crouton topped with foie gras and truffle. It’s a classic French dish that relies on a Madeira demi-glace sauce – a reduction of Madeira wine and demi-glace that is known as ‘the great sauce’ by French chefs. It should be rich and almost sticky – plate lickingly good.
What arrived was a glorious dish to look at – and poetry on the lips, with perfectly cooked steak to the chef’s recommendation (medium rare) garnished with all the classic accompaniments.
With our main courses, we ordered side orders of pomme dauphinoise and haricots verts. And, our waiter recommended a truly exceptional bottle of 2012 Chateau Canon-Chaigneau Lalande de Pomerol, a delicious, rounded and silky Bordeaux with notes of cherries, flowers, and chocolate.
Now at this point, I’d normally admit defeat and skip pudding for coffee. But, I’ve never tried the famous l’Escargot soufflé au chocolat. It’s cooked to order so you need to have enough time for a leisurely break. When it arrives, a good spoonful of vanilla ice cream is added to the centre and the whole thing is topped with a classic dark chocolate ganache. Utterly delicious and really worth trying, I have no regrets!
Meanwhile, the Amalfi lemon tart which my companion ordered was a hit too – a bit like a lemony creme brulee on a light pastry shell according to my companion who was not going to share!
We rounded off the meal with coffee before rolling home.
I will undoubtedly be back at l’Escargot soon. It’s the kind of place you can go for a business lunch. It’s the kind of place where a romantic date will feel completely natural. And, it’s the kind of place to celebrate a special birthday or anniversary. It’s also a place where you can enjoy a prix fixe lunch or early evening meal with two courses for less than £25. They are even launching an afternoon tea!
L’Escargot is open from Tuesday to Saturday from 12:00-15:00 / 17:00-22:00 and Sunday from 12:00-15:00 Closed on Monday
L’Escargot
48 Greek Street,
Soho,
London
W1D 4EF.
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