Last Updated on February 17, 2026
A Festive Fondue in Covent Garden
To my recollection, it was sometime between 2010 to 2012 that London experienced its last fondue craze. To my mind, suddenly, all sorts of restaurants and eateries were trying to get fondue on their menus by any means necessary, and then, as if by magic: the craze ceased. The tide of fondue steadily reduced back to its pre-craze ebb. The exact reasons for this rise and fall remain a mystery to me. The gold standard is undoubtedly Wardour Street’s St Moritz, and thankfully this institution has remained consistent irrespective of other market trends. I myself can say that I am 1/16th Swiss, with my great-great-grandfather having emigrated to make his career and family in England. For the purposes of this piece, I will rely on this heritage as the source of my authority on all things fondue. (Or at the very least, 1/16th of the subject.) It is with this in mind that I went to Lilly’s Café to try their festive menu, being drawn to the star of the show: their fondue.
I headed into Lilly’s and was brought into a delightful peach-coloured sanctuary at the back of the building that Lilly’s shares with a handful of other restaurants. The table—complete with a holly-green suede covering and wreath—adequately set the mood for a festive experience. Starting with a glass of prosecco, my partner and I selected the prawn cocktail and celeriac and truffle soup respectively. I thought that the cocktail was a rather prudent choice for the menu considering its shared pedigree with fondue; both gaining initial popularity in America and Britain in a vague 1960s milieu. It was nice and peppery with a good touch of Tabasco.
My potage was pleasingly warm, and I am always in favour of a dish that manages to utilise the criminally underused celeriac well.
But all of this was ultimately a lull before the main event: the fondue for two. When it arrived, the fondue was accompanied by a broad dish of potatoes and a plate of bread. Lilly’s Café has opted for baguette bread, cut up into thin slices, and then toasted in favour of cubed soft bread. The decision was unorthodox but not unwelcome. The bread when dipped into the warm cheese softened a mite and was well coated, serving as a splendid vehicle for the sauce. The potatoes were also well seasoned and cooked so that their skins were ridged, allowing for greater cheese coverage. The fondue was paired nicely with a glass of Portuguese AB Valley white, which had enough bite to cut through the richness of the cheese. After two rounds of bread and potatoes, I felt more than satisfied.
To finish the evening, I concluded my meal with the date pudding, served with a warm crème Anglaise. The consistency of the cake was wonderfully light and not too heavy at all, which helped considering the previous plenty of the main course. My companion and I then pulled a cracker: fortuitously, I received a small notepad which I used to jot down my thoughts. We both left Lilly’s Café and exited out into Covent Garden feeling that much more festive and ready for the approaching Christmas season.
Lilly’s Festive Menu is priced at £42.00 for two courses and £49.00 for three.
The restaurant is open every day of the week from 09:00 to 21:30 and is situated on the edge of the main market square. You may also enjoy Pivot, next door, where they are currently offering a 60-minute dining guarantee, perfect for Christmas shoppers and theatre-goers alike.
Lilly’s Cafe
3 Henrietta Street
Covent Garden
London
WC2E 8LU
Leave a Reply