Last Updated on May 17, 2024
Peruvian Delights in the heart of Covent Garden
Looking for something different? Lima Cantina, the baby sister of Lima London in Fitzrovia, offers a cafe-style menu of Peruvian dishes, complemented by some excellent Pisco cocktails. Set in a quirky building that used to be a convent, it’s a fun place to dine – informal and buzzing – with a warm and welcoming newly refurbished dining area. We pop into Lima occasionally for pre-theatre dining (they have a 2-course menu for £25 pp from Tuesday to Friday – or a quarter chicken Peruvian style for just £15). But, it’s been a while since we were there for a relaxed dinner.
The challenge, for anyone like me who is trying to watch how much they drink, is that the Piscos are just too good! My Chilcano was a heady mixture of pisco, ginger ale, lime and bitters, perfect for a chilly autumnal evening, while my companion enjoyed a classic Pisco Sour. Unlike any other spirit I know, pisco is technically a type of un-aged brandy made from Peruvian grapes. I suspect my fondness comes from the lime juice which is used to lace most Pisco cocktails. And, the fact that Pisco cocktails are generally sour rather than sweet, though the team at Lima Cantina will adapt your own drink to your personal taste.
If you are looking for healthy options, Peruvian cuisine has much to offer. We set out to pick the lighter options from the menu, though temptation got the better of us and a few naughty additions made our meal truly sumptuous. To start, three dishes to share.
I love Ceviche and opted for the Salmon Ceviche at Lima Cantina – a dish of fresh fish ‘cooked’ in avocado tiger’s milk and served with plantain crisps. Leche de Tigre or Tiger’s Milk is a lime-juice-based marinade that ‘cooks’ the fish without heat. Blending it with avocado makes a softer and gentler sauce to complement the delicate notes of fresh salmon – and we loved every mouthful.
Tuna Tiraditos is another spicy raw fish dish – here with a mango and avocado tiger’s milk complemented by chunks of fresh mango and avocado and Aji Amarillo adding a spicy kick
We both loved our Wok Beef Tacos crisp and warm tacos topped with a tender, spicy shredded beef mix and fragrant guacamole. I could easily have eaten both! But, I am supposedly avoiding red meat at the moment. For that reason, I ordered the Frittura de Sea Bream for my main course. What a stunning presentation – chunks of corn-coated, fried seabream nestling inside a fish shell. I have to confess when it arrived on the table, it took me a few minutes to work out that the fried fish body was not edible – rather the fish chunks inside and the plantain crisps.
My companion was easily convinced to try the Strip Loin Lomo Saltado, then a dish I love but thought was stretching the ‘avoid red meat’ protocol a little too far. It sounds unlikely but, it’s a classic Peruvian dish made by marinating beef in soy and wok-frying it together with tomatoes, peppers and onions. It’s served topped with fried Andean potatoes, with a side dish of jasmine rice. Nikkei cuisine is a fusion cuisine that originates from Japanese immigrants who arrived in Peru towards the end of the 19th century. This particular dish is like nothing else I have come across – with a fragrant Asian twist to a hearty beef and potato dish.
Tenderstem broccoli with chilli and soy sauce was perfectly al-dente and an excellent foil for both our main courses. What a feast – we could easily have stopped there but, in the interest of research thought that dessert was entirely appropriate.
Picarones are a bit like Peruvian Churros – little fried doughnuts that you eat with a sweet caramel sauce and lime ice cream. They are very, very moreish – if you plan on sharing, I’d think again – or do as we did and have an extra dessert!
The Torta de Queso was also delicious, a white chocolate covered passionfruit and cashew cream mousse with a crumbly biscuit accompaniment
And, the Piura Chocolate Cake,a soft dark brownie-like concoction sat on a chocolate ganache with a generous dollop of dulce de leche and shards of dark, bitter chocolate to complement the sweetness of the dulce de leche.
We rounded off our meal with strong black coffee and rolled contentedly home! I’ve been a fan of Lima for a long time and I can confidently say the recently refurbished Lima Cantina is even better than it’s predecessor (Lima Floral). It’s the kind of place where I’ll happily drop in for a bite to eat after shopping or pre-theatre – but am just as happy to spend an evening with friends. The atmosphere is warm and the service is fast, efficient and helpful without being intrusive.
Lima Cantina
14 Garrick Street
Covent Garden
London WC2E 9BJ
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