Last Updated on January 4, 2026
Something Fishy’s Going on in Soho
This month’s Restaurant of the Month feature is a review of Manzi’s, the long-awaited reimagining of the classic Soho fish restaurant that was originally located on the corner of Leicester Square. It was a stalwart of the London dining scene from its opening in 1928 until its closure in 2008. The entrepreneurial Manzi family came from Ravello on the Amalfi coast, started with nothing and built up interests in the hotel and restaurant business, jukebox and slot machines as well as the music business.
Along with Pepino Leoni who started Quo Vadis and Giovanni Quaglino of the eponymous St James restaurant, the Manzi family were part of a wave of Italian immigrants who transformed London dining, creating a more cosmopolitan and less formal scene. The new Manzi’s launch is not without controversy as it is owned by The Wolseley Hospitality Group, previously run by London restaurant kingpins Jeremy King and Chris Corbin, who were recently ousted by foreign investors, and this is the new group’s first opening.
The old place was known as much for being a destination for louche behaviour (always a good thing!) as for its kitschy maritime interior. The new Manzi’s which sits neatly in Bateman’s Buildings in Soho, between Frith and Greek streets just off Soho Square, aims to capture the spirit of its predecessor.
The entrance welcomes visitors with a magnificent mural depicting a marlin, paying homage to Hemingway’s timeless novella, The Old Man and the Sea. Spanning two floors, the establishment also offers an inviting outdoor terrace. Inside, a captivating nautical-themed décor seamlessly blends the elegance of the 1920s with the vibrant spirit of the 1970s, showcasing a delightful palette of soothing blues and aquamarine tones and ceilings hung with elegant chandeliers.
Upstairs, where we were seated, features a glamorous square-shaped bar with a marble countertop, graced by life-sized stone mermaids positioned at each corner. The sleek parquet wood and stone floors provide a stylish foundation, complemented by oval jade-coloured table tops adorned with fringed art deco lamps. Adding a touch of opulence, luxurious turquoise banquettes in fur and leather offer comfortable seating options, while intricate scallop shells and various sea creatures are artfully integrated throughout the venue.
Additionally, each table is set with exquisite silver crab salt and pepper cellars, reminiscent of the coveted tableware found in the renowned Quaglinos establishment during the 1990s.
We took our corner seats and browsed the menu to the backdrop of gentle, ambient house music. We drank Macabeo 2020. Molinico Loco, Murcia, Spain, a classic Spanish white, fresh and crisp with notes of pear and citrus.
Starters arrived elegantly plated. I had Leeks Mimosa – crunchy baby leeks in a light citrus and chive dressing with 70s-style lightly curried ‘devilled’ eggs. My companion’s Severn & Wye Smoked Eel provided a decent portion of eel with a gentle horseradish cream that needed a bit more bite, topped with pickled cucumber.
Moving on to our main courses – my chargrilled lemon sole, served on the bone, was quite delicious. The fish was fabulously meaty, cooked to perfection, and enveloped in a nuanced caper butter sauce, with tenderstem broccoli on the side.
Originating from San Francisco, Cioppino Fish Stew is a beloved classic of Italian-American cuisine. At Manzi’s, their rendition of this dish showcased a generous medley of clams, mussels, prawns, white fish, and squid, luxuriating in a rich tomato and fennel sauce, mopped up by a couple of slices of grilled sourdough and enlivened by a vibrant saffron aioli.
The dessert menu was amusingly retro with the choice of Summer Pudding, Black Forest Gateau or Brandy Snaps with Cointreau Cream and Caramel. I couldn’t resist the latter, as it transported me right back to my childhood – I used to make Brandy Snaps with my mother, curling them around a wooden spoon! Here, they were flawlessly executed with a satisfyingly crisp crunch and filled with a subtle yet irresistible Cointreau cream. A great conclusion to the meal.
Manzi’s is Soho’s new kid on the block, fun, glamorous and surprisingly good value for the quality.
1-8 Bateman’s Buildings,
Soho,
London W1D 3EN
Other new restaurants that have caught our eye this month include
Mountain
We are big fans of Brat, Welsh chef Tomos Parry’s Shoreditch Basque grill (see our review). Parry’s next opening Mountain is in Soho and is described as a ‘wood grill and wine bar’. It will be our next Restaurant of the Month so watch out for Catherine’s review.
16-18 Beak St,
London
W1F 9RD
The Portrait Restaurant
I’m a sucker for restaurants in art galleries. With the reopening of the National Portrait Gallery, you can feast your eyes on the new Paul McCartney exhibition of early Beatles photos and then head to the rooftop for a nosh at Richard Corrigan’s (Bentley’s, Corrigan’s) newest place. His fish pie is a must eat and the soda bread is the best you’ll try.
National Portrait Gallery,
St Martin’s Place,
London WC2H 0HE
Yannick Alléno’s Pavyllon at the Four Seasons
If you’re looking for something swanky, French and cutting edge, then 15 Michelin-starred superstar French chef Yannick Alléno’s first place in London, Pavyllon, situated just off Park Lane in the Four Seasons hotel with its British take on some of his classic dishes, might be just the thing. It puts the Four Seasons in Mayfair on a par with the city of London Four Seasons hotel where Michelin-starred chef Anne -Sophie Pic has her only London restaurant La Dame de Pic
Four Seasons Hotel
Hamilton Place,
London
W1J 7DR
Do check our other Restaurant of the Month recommendations
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