Last Updated on April 1, 2026
Who knew Parmesan could have so many uses?
Recently, we attended a cookery experience at Westminster Kingsway Catering College, an institution with a storied history, having been founded with Ritz and Escoffier and boasting such luminous alumni as Jamie Oliver and Ainsley Harriott.
We were there to find out more about the wonderful world of Parmigiano Reggiano with telly favourite and one of Jamie’s old chums, Gennaro Contaldo. This was in collaboration with Parmigiano Reggiano and Taste Europe. In the last few years, you may have seen different ages of Parmesan turning up in delis and supermarkets. Generally ranging from 12 to 36 months of ageing, Gennaro was here to show us the many ways you can use this versatile ingredient, past simply grating a little on top of your weekday bolognese.
We started by trying the 12-month-aged cheese, which was milder and more moist. It was closer to a sliceable cheese like cheddar, although still with that typical parmesan salinity. At 26 months, the cheese was drier, and salt crystals crunched as you took a bite. At 36 months, this was a cheese at its full powers, strong, pungent and crumbly; it was not difficult to differentiate.
Like its other European brethren: Champagne, Roquefort, etc., Parmigiano Reggiano is a DOP or Protected Designation of Origin. This controls the ingredients: milk, rennet and salt only. The location of manufacture: the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy, and the 300-year-old recipe, all of which are strictly regulated and maintained to ensure a uniform product.
Each wheel is from 700 litres of milk, making it such an investment that it is well known that wheels of the cheese, now microchipped and stored in security-monitored and temperature-controlled facilities, can act as mortgage down payments for Italian farmers.
The cows, grass and water must all be from Emilia-Romagna, even some of the 330 licensed cheesemakers get to travel from across the world to be involved with the process. Of course, Gennaro hastens to add an extra ingredient, passion, which is a key ingredient in so much Italian food. Emilia-Romagna is home to many of Italy’s most famous exports, after Parmigiano, it is also the origin of Ferrari, Lambrusco, tagliatelle, ravioli and of course bolognese.
Gennaro is full of useful information, for instance, that Parmigiano Reggiano is best kept at room temperature, wrapped in wax paper in the dark. That way, the tight wrapping will keep it from drying out, but the flavours will be more available on the tongue than if it were fridge cold. He is keen to encourage us to see that Parmigiano has just as much right to be enjoyed as part of a cheeseboard, not just in pasta.
Gennaro also demonstrated a recipe for Ravioli Dolci. A ricotta and semolina pastry, filled with milk, cinnamon, more semolina, ricotta, tinned pears and yes! 80g of 24-month aged grated parmesan! (This is Genarro’s favourite age of Parmesan, and luckily, the easiest one to find in shops.
This was then rolled out just like ravioli, filled and fried in lemon peel-scented oil before a drizzle of honey on top. While the dominant flavours were sweet, the salty and complex undertones of Parmesan helped to elevate this indulgent traditional dessert.
Gennaro had also arrived with a range of food for us to try, with the Parmesan in its raw form. With Louisa’s Honey, it was most balanced and almost created a new combined flavour in the mouth. With dates it was indulgent and meaty, while with espresso powder… to be honest, that one didn’t work; they can’t all be winners.
With radicchio and balsamic, it was a bitter, fresh and summery mix, with walnuts as well made the texture crunchy and exciting.
Clearly, a combination of bitter leaves, a bit of crunch and a sweet condiment were the winning combinations. Other suggestions included mostarda; candied fruits flavoured with mustard, traditionally eaten in Italy with meat and sliced fennel. Another winning combination was with pineapple, a surprising suggestion from Gennaro, when my understanding is that there is still some soreness in the old country since it was introduced to pizza. However it worked, unsurprising when we in Britain have been enjoying the humble apple with a slice of cheese at lunch since Shakespeare’s day.
Well-aged and sharp, best enjoyed with a glass of wine or just a simple bowl of pasta, it was a pleasure to spend the afternoon with Genarro. The Parmesan was great too. His expertise and quick wit got us all excited about the possibilities Parmigiano Reggiano can bring to the dinner table.
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