Last Updated on January 4, 2026
Pyro, Southwark: A Modern Greek Restaurant with Fire at Its Heart
4.0 out of 5.0 starsWe’re always on the lookout for exciting new restaurant openings that bring something distinctive to the table, and for May, our Restaurant of the Month is Pyro in Southwark. Taking over the site formerly home to In Horto, Pyro is a celebration of cooking over fire, where bold Greek flavours meet refined technique in a menu built for sharing. Led by Yiannis Mexis, whose pedigree includes Elystan Street, The Ledbury, and HIDE, this is a restaurant that blends serious culinary craft with the laid-back spirit of a Mediterranean gathering.
Pyro features a large bar and a spacious garden terrace – an inviting spot that is sure to hum with energy on warmer evenings and wouldn’t feel out of place in a tucked-away corner of Athens. Inside, the design plays with the same indoor-outdoor spirit: a wooden structure with a stick ceiling and large shutters. Terracotta hexagon tiles line the floor, while wicker pendant lamps cast a warm, golden glow over long wooden tables and cosy booths simply set with beautiful ceramic plates. Even the staff seem part of the palette, dressed in muted green shirts and soft beige aprons that mirror the earthy tones of the room.
At the heart of it all is the open kitchen and bar, where guests can perch and watch the theatre of live-fire cooking unfold.
We went along for a leisurely lunch – it was all very fresh and new, but there’s something undeniably satisfying about being there at the beginning, when a restaurant is still settling into its rhythm. The menu is designed for sharing, divided into thoughtful sections: Breads & Crudités, Spreads, Grazing, Crudo, From the Fire, Beyond the Fire, and Sides. It’s the kind of structure that encourages a relaxed, grazing style of eating, where dishes come out as they’re ready and nothing feels too formal.
There’s also a creative cocktail list, but given the hour, we opted for wine. Glasses are available by the 125ml pour, a small carafe would be a welcome future addition for those wanting just a little more than a single glass. The Retsina listed wasn’t yet available, but we were in the mood for something Greek to match the food, and the team happily poured us a couple of glasses of Kokotos Assyrtiko – a crisp, citrusy white with notes of melon and just the right lift.
We started with the potato pita, cooked on the hearth – an unexpectedly fabulous thing, somewhere between a potato muffin and a flatbread, warm and pillowy with a golden crust, perfect for scooping and dipping. It found its match in the smoked aubergine, which was rich and silky with just enough char, lifted by a crunch of roasted garlic and the sour-sweet zing of pomegranate seeds. Equally good was the spiced feta with marinated sweet peppers, a creamy, punchy dish with a gentle chilli kick and that lovely balance of salt, heat, and sweetness that makes you go straight back in for more.
Next up was the Spanakopita, presented almost like a pastel de nata, with a crisp, golden pastry shell cradling a rich filling of spinach and fragrant herbs. It was earthy, with a vegetal depth and a satisfying crunch.
The souvlaki skewer of pork pluma was cooked over the embers until beautifully tender and charred. It arrived with a clever tangle of prune, radicchio, and sour apple – the succulence of the meat, the sweetness of the prunes, the bitter crunch of the radicchio, and the sharp lift of the apple all playing in perfect balance.
From the Crudo section, the coal-seared bass was a highlight, arriving in a dramatic smoky mist. Cooked on hot coals, the skin was beautifully charred while the fish remained tender and raw. Swimming in herbaceous grapefruit olive oil and creamy yoghurt, the dish was light and fresh, with the smoky skin and citrusy notes complementing the fish perfectly.
Moving on to the fire, the asparagus with smoked eel and avgolemono was a clever, quietly luxurious dish, the bright lemony sauce cutting through the richness of the eel, with just enough smokiness to keep things interesting.
The scorched Cornish turbot was beautifully cooked, served with clams, charred potatoes, cucumber and nettles in a verdant, vegetal sauce that brought real depth without overpowering the delicate fish. It was a plate that felt both summery and substantial.
On the side, a simple salad of lettuce with pomegranate and a feta dressing offered freshness and crunch, nothing showy, just clean, well-judged flavours. But the crispy layered potato was fab and a touch naughty – deep-fried until golden and stacked in perfect slices, served with a smooth, punchy skordalia that delivered a satisfying garlic kick.
And finally, a dinky Greek coffee mocha pot with halva arrived to round things off. With its crumbly biscuit base and gently sweet, nutty finish, it was incredibly moreish – the perfect end to the meal alongside a strong, black coffee that cut through the richness.
Pyro’s prime Southwark location makes it perfectly placed to draw a crowd, and with summer approaching, its terrace and laid-back taverna vibes are bound to shine. It’s not the cheapest spot, but it’s the kind of place that feels special: a thoughtful, fire-led celebration of Greek flavours that’s well worth seeking out in the heart of Borough.
Pyro,
Southwark Quarter,
53B Southwark Street,
London, SE1 1RU
www.pyrorestaurant.co.uk
Looking for more new(ish) openings to try? Check our Best London Restaurant Openings for 2025 and our most recent restaurant opening review, One Club Row in Shoreditch
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