Last Updated on January 4, 2026
Renowned restaurant opens in central London
Recently opened on chic Marylebone Lane, St. John Marylebone was my choice for our December restaurant of the month. Chef Fergus Henderson revolutionised British cooking when he opened the original Smithfield outpost in 1994 with its ‘nose to tail eating’ philosophy and I’m a long-time admirer of the iconic St. John Bread and Wine in Spitalfields where I have enjoyed the best bacon butties known to Londoners, I was keen to explore what the first new restaurant in over a decade from the St. John stable would offer. The St. John in Marylebone is open all day and has a welcoming bar area on the ground floor where people can pop in throughout the day for a coffee and pastry from their bakery in Bermondsey, a glass of wine or champagne and a small plate while watching Londoners go by from the large sash windows that look out over the street.
The restaurant has been designed by Red Deer, an international architecture and interiors practice, and remains faithful to the pared-back aesthetic that defines the interiors of the other St. John eateries. Unadorned square wooden tables, comfortable wooden chairs and white walls are standard in St. John interiors and provide a welcoming familiarity to regulars of the restaurants. The striking steel bar on the ground floor is expansive and contemporary. Downstairs wine bottles line the top of the walls which provides storage as well as a visual focal point. The interior is intended to be reminiscent of bars in Paris and Florence which are open all day and encourage a mix of patrons.
We made our way downstairs to the subterranean level where the dining room was packed with happy eaters at lunchtime on a freezing Sunday. There is something about very cold weather that puts one in a good mood simply entering a warm environment to be well fed. Even more so when the combination of Fergus Henderson’s menu and Trevor Gulliver’s wine list are on offer.
The menu changes daily and is displayed on a blackboard. I cannot deny that I felt slightly aggrieved that there was no roast marrow bone on the menu, and I hope that on my next visit I am fortunate to taste this fabulous dish. However, there was plenty to keep us happy and we ate a meal so generous that it was all we could do to get up the iron staircase when we were done. The service was relaxed and friendly and the waiter helped us with the difficult decisions that must be faced when no one person could possibly eat their way through the entire menu. The menu is designed for sharing with small plates leading to larger ones and then on to mains and desserts. The small bites we started with were so utterly delicious that I rather regretted having to share. I could easily have made a meal of these fabulous bites. In particular, I am referring to the deep-fried rarebit and the mussels with aioli. Dividing these out between two people really challenged my sense of fair play. The only way around this, of course, is to order one for each person but then tummies would be too full to do the whole menu justice.
We perused the substantial wine list – St. John is that happy combination of a wine bar that serves wonderful food – and chose two items from St. John’s own vineyard. A glass each of St. John Crèmant de Limoux 2019, Anthech, Limoux and, later, a glass of St. John Bien Autre 2018 Boulevard Napoléon, Minervois.
Deep-fried rarebit is every bit as enticing as those three words suggest. This was a crunchy oblong, beautifully crisp, opening to reveal that molten lava type of cheesiness that oozes onto the plate. It was served with a bottle of Lea and Perrins. Mature cheese, just the right level of salt and spiciness, is entirely addictive. Between its unbeatable bacon butty and the deep-fried rarebit, St. John could set itself up as the ultimate cure for hangovers.
The mussels and aioli were gorgeous. A crisp crostini was spread with a layer of excellent aioli and topped with a heap of mussels. Pungent garlic, crisp bread and soft mussels made for a great mouthfeel. I could easily have eaten several of these all on my own.
A warming bowl of squash and bacon soup was next. I had expected a thick potage so was surprised – pleasantly – when a bowl of broth arrived filled with chunks of vegetable and meat. The broth was deeply flavoursome and well-seasoned. Lovely smokiness emanated from the bacon chunks and a burst of colour from the squash. This would be perfect for Christmas lunch.
Next up was one of the highlights of the meal. Ox heart radicchio and pickled walnut was a fabulous dish which looked as good as it tasted. Amongst the scarlet radicchio leaves nestled thin slices of tender ox heart. The bitter leaves paired beautifully with the meat which reminded me of liver and was, in fact, fried with onions as in that wonderful dish, liver and onions. The addition of pickled walnuts added another level of flavour. It was my first time eating heart – St. John is renowned for its nose-to-tail eating philosophy – and it really should be on more menus.
Although St. John is known for its meaty dishes, vegetable and fish have increasingly made more of an appearance and our next dish was yet another high point of the meal. Pollock, leeks and mayonnaise revealed a thick fillet of perfectly cooked fish, the sweet flesh flaked beautifully and wearing a crisp skin. It was served alongside a quenelle of mustardy mayonnaise and a tangle of garlicky leeks. This was the epitome of a simple and wonderful plate of food. Well-executed, life-affirming food, all very, very well done.
Roast Tamworth, turnips and mustard comprised two generous slices of pork with three turnip wedges. The meat was tender with crunchy crackling. The pale pink pork and sweet flavour spoke of a pig that had a happy life. I was put in mind of the quote from John Stuart Mill about being better to be a dissatisfied Socrates than a satisfied pig. In this instance, it was good to be a satisfied diner eating what I hope once was a satisfied pig.
Needless to say, we were in no need of dessert but with a menu this good we simply had to continue. We eschewed the rice pudding on offer and selected a chocolate mousse and a slice of Evenlode with raisin loaf. Stichelton was the alternative cheese. Evenlode is a washed rind cow’s cheese, similar in style to but less pungent than Camembert. It was served with three slices of toasted raisin bread which certainly gives me an idea for my Christmas cheese board. What a lovely change from crackers. The raisins added a touch of sweetness and the toast was perfect with soft cheese.
The chocolate mousse was served in a small ramekin and was very good indeed. It was topped with a poached prune that had more alcohol in it than we did after a couple of glasses. Fabulously boozy and so good with the rich mousse that was made with a superior chocolate.
I had read about St. John’s freshly baked madeleines which are not only my namesake but also one of my husband’s favourite little cakes. So, we simply had to order a half dozen to nibble over an espresso and fresh mint tea. They were hot out of the oven and light as air which is more than I can say for us at this stage of the afternoon.
We left St. John happy and very satisfied with our long lunch, merrily making our way down the charming Marylebone Lane as the snow began to fall and made London more magical than ever. Merry Christmas.
St. John, 98 Marylebone Lane W1U 2QA
Looking for something different? Last month’s restaurant opening was Restaurant St. Barts in Smithfields reviewed by Adrian York
Other new restaurants that have caught our eye this month include
Chet’s at the Hoxton Hotel Shepherds Bush – Installed in the brand new iteration of the uber-trendy Hoxton Hotel on Shepherds Bush Green is Chet’s, an American-style Thai restaurant with fiery, smoky plates from chef Kris Yenbamroong – founder of LA Thai hotspot, NIGHT + MARKET.
65 Shepherds Bush Green, W12 8QE
Ikoyi – Using spices from sub-Saharan West Sahara and seasonal British produce, Ikoyi’s chef Jeremy Chan has conjured up two Michelin stars in next to no time. The restaurant has now moved from its original home in St James Market to a larger space in the Strand where they offer lunchtime and evening tasting menus.
180 Strand, Temple, London WC2R 1EA
Shiro – Shiro is the latest London restaurant from the Aqua group (see our review of Aqua Nueva) and is a sister to the successful Hong Kong outpost that specialises in crystal sushi rolls wrapped in a jelly coating to intensify the flavours. With influences from ‘Ginza, Shinjuku and Shibuya in Tokyo’ , it’s sure to be another hit.
100 Liverpool Street, Broadgate Circle, London EC2M 2RH
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