Bouchon Racine – Restaurant of the Month

Last Updated on January 9, 2026

Racine – Going back to its roots in Farringdon

It’s 21 years since chef Henry Harris and front-of-house maestro Eric Garnier opened their stylish French restaurant Racine in Knightsbridge. Racine means ‘root’ and the restaurant felt like a breath of fresh air in the early noughties after an era of foams and fusion with a return to solid bourgeois culinary fundamentals. Racine eventually closed as the demographic of the area shifted, but something of value was lost. Now, thankfully, Henry Harris is back with Bouchon Racine above the historic Three Compasses pub in Farringdon.

It seemed appropriate that Bouchon Racine should be our Restaurant of the Month. The Bouchon moniker is normally associated with the chef/patron-led operations found in Lyon, France’s pre-eminent culinary city. They specialise in high-quality traditional cooking with an emphasis on robust portions and a friendly informal ambience. 

Walking through the door the atmosphere is very different to the original iteration of Racine with its nods to Art Deco. There is dusky pink wood panelling, a rustic wooden floor, period light fittings and prints on the walls with tables covered in white linen tablecloths and shelves stacked with bottles of French wines. There is a covered balcony with a great view overlooking Cowcross St.

We arrived for lunch on a blustery January afternoon, welcomed by the friendly staff and the warmth of this lovely intimate Lyonnaise restaurant. The menu is chalked on a large blackboard which is brought to the table with old Racine favourites like Tête de Veau taking pride of place along with a selection of classic French dishes.

We began with a bottle of Picpoul de Pinet, Baron de Badassière, 2021, dry and clean with gentle citrus notes and a touch of melon,  from a wine list that won’t break the bank.

Starters were all rather tempting however we chose well with the Hareng, pomme a l’huile – a classic dish with soft waxy potatoes, crisp pickled onion, carrot and silky herring, and a sensational egg mayonnaise with a soft runny yolk, topped with Cantabrian anchovy giving it a salty tang and cutting through the rich mayonnaise. Accompanied by a crusty baguette with beurre demi-sel, they made for the perfect start to our meal.

My bavette steak was wonderfully succulent and slightly charred, bathed in a creamy, cheesy Saint Marcellin sauce with a touch of pepper, which didn’t overwhelm the meat but only added to its fabulous flavours.

My companion’s generous plate of sea bass and lentils had heaps of flavour, The fish was served in a luxurious buttery champagne sauce complimented by the earthiness of the lentils. For our sides, we ate a crisp, simply dressed green salad with lambs’ leaf and frisée and some crunchy triple-cooked chips. 

And finally, when we thought we couldn’t eat another thing, a huge Mont Blanc for two – a rarity on London restaurant menus these days -, was a wonderful collation of meringue, sweet chestnut purée and whipped cream. Finishing it would have been as big an ask as climbing the mountain itself after a large meal. So, we failed. But it was worth it. 

We finished off with a glass of smooth Prune Eau de Vie and a strong black coffee and staggered out full but happy.

If Bouchon Racine isn’t yet on your radar it should be. With a congenial and relaxed vibe, it’s already bustling with an enthusiastic lunch crowd of Racine regulars and young chefs on a learning mission; and with rave reviews and a nod from Nigella it’s bound to be more so in the evenings… be sure to book soon!

Bouchon Racine

66 Cowcross St, London EC1M 6BP

https://www.bouchonracine.com/

Other new restaurants that have caught our eye this month include

Jacuzzi – The Big Mamma Group specialises in fun, over-the-top Italian restaurants (Circolo Popolare in Fitzrovia and Gloria in Shoreditch) and their next opening Jacuzzi is taking the excess to another level. Set in a four-floored Italian mansion with a basement “disco toilet” it opens on 20th January 2023.

Jacuzzi – 94 Kensington High Street, London W8 4SH

Darjeeling Express – Asma Khan’s Darjeeling Express is returning to Kingly Court in trendy Carnaby on 30th January 2023 after a stint in Covent Garden. This will come as a relief to the many fans of her Indian cuisine who have been in withdrawal!  

Darjeeling Express  – Kingly Court, Kingly St, Carnaby, London W1B 5PW

Cavo – We will be reviewing Cavo, a huge new Mediterranean restaurant, in the next few days. You’ll find it on the fourth floor of the Now Building at the Outernet – the new development on the corner of Oxford Street and Charing Cross Road, and with rooftop gardens and an exciting food concept it is set to become a major new London destination.

Cavo  – The Now Building, Outernet, Denmark St, London WC2H 0LA

Or, check our restaurant of the month recommendations for November (St. Barts Smithfields) and December (St. John Marylebone) for more ideas.