Hotel Chinzanso, Tokyo

Last Updated on June 8, 2026

Garden oasis in the midst of the city

Strolling around a hillside forest with a waterfall and pond, a red wooden bridge, moss-covered stone lanterns, a Shinto shrine, a traditional teahouse and a three-story pagoda suggests you are in Japan. Enjoying this environment in a hotel garden in Tokyo can mean only one thing: you are privileged to be a guest at Hotel Chinzanso. Invited to visit this iconic hotel, I discovered the perfect haven from Tokyo’s full-throttle energy. At the end of a day of museum visits and sightseeing in the dynamic megatropolis, returning to the peaceful retreat of Hotel Chinzanso’s five-star experience was the ultimate in luxury travel.

Hotel Chinzanso Garden

Hotel Chinzanso is located on a hill in a northern suburb of Tokyo, called Bunkyo City. While Tokyo has no shortage of five-star hotels, what makes Hotel Chinzanso unique is its outstanding garden, with a history stretching back centuries. Known in the 1300’s as Tsubaki-yama (Camelia Hill), the area remained popular for recreation during the Edo Period (1603 – 1868). In 1878, Prince Arimoto Yamagata (who served twice as Japan’s prime minister) was so enraptured that he bought the land on which he built a house and garden he named Chinzanso (which translates as ‘manor on Camelia Hill’). Later, in 1918, it was bought by Baron Heitaro Fujita, who collected and placed significant cultural monuments around the garden. Chief amongst these is the Entsukaku three-story pagoda that, in 1925, was relocated from Hiroshima and restored. It dates back at least to the 1300s and is one of only three ancient pagodas in Tokyo.

One of the oldest trees in the garden is over 500 years old and is known as Goshinboku (sacred tree). It wears a thick rope around its trunk, which signifies that it is believed to contain kami (Shinto deities or spirits). Other ancient artefacts include the Hannyaji Temple Stone Lantern, considered an original lantern from the Kamakura Period (1192 – 1333).

The current Chinzanso owners – the leading Japanese hospitality group, Fujita Kankō –  have maintained the beautiful landscaping established by Prince Yamagata while adding contemporary features. Camellias continue to be an important feature of the planting, and nowadays, varieties from all over Japan are planted on Camelia Hill. The central Yosuichi Pond provides a beautiful focal point and space for koi and brightly coloured nishikigoi carp, and is the site for one of the garden’s most popular features, The Sea of Clouds, a mist that is released from the area surrounding the pool and which envelops the garden. It occurs every half an hour until late at night. We were as excited as children watching the first snowfall.

At night, it was especially enchanting to walk through the garden, illuminated by a thousand lanterns, and as the mist rolled over us, we felt transported to another world. The trees moved in and out of sight as the mist swirled this way and that on the breeze. To enhance the ethereal atmosphere, at different times of day and night, the Sea of Clouds is accompanied by a soundscape. The garden is a lesson not only in Japanese cultural history but in horticulture and bird life. It is an exceptional space and reason enough to book a stay at Hotel Chinzanso so as to enjoy this oasis. I recommend booking a garden tour to fully appreciate this remarkable space.

Indoors, there is as much to captivate guests. With numerous restaurants and one of Tokyo’s largest spas, there is plenty of opportunity for deep relaxation. Many international visitors to Japan arrive in Tokyo, and I found that a few days of rest at Hotel Chinzanso were a perfect way to overcome jet lag before tackling what this dynamic city has to offer.

Hotel Chinzanso exudes classic luxurious elegance with swathes of dark green marble and thick-piled carpet. Being a large hotel, there are many passageways, and these are lined with floral and bird prints, large flower arrangements, Japanese ceramics, lamps, and sofas, which fill the communal spaces with traditional charm. The welcome from the well-trained staff is warm, and help is on hand for anything you may require, including the wonderfully helpful service of forwarding your luggage to your next destination within Japan, a system called takkyubin.

Accommodation

Hotel Chinzanso is spread across 14 floors and has 267 rooms, of which 44 are suites. The rooms range from Superior to Deluxe to Suites and are all generously sized. Rooms in the Z-shaped hotel are laid out in a stepped fashion to maximise unobstructed views from the very large bay windows.  

After a private check-in on the 4^th floor – where suite guests begin their stay – we were shown to our spacious, executive suite on the 11^th floor. There was a breathtaking view over the Chinzanso garden and, in the distance, the skyscrapers of downtown Tokyo. Over the next two days, I spent much time simply gazing at the view.  The lounge had a comfortable seating area with classically designed furnishings and floor-length drapes.

The bedroom had a capacious bed, period wooden furnishings, and a picture window from which to admire the garden.

The bathroom was a real classic and a most relaxing space with oodles of marble, a large bath and a walk-in shower. The L’Occitane bath products were top-notch.

Le Ciel Executive Lounge

Guests staying in one of the 44 suites have all-day access to Le Ciel, the Executive Lounge overlooking the garden through floor-to-ceiling glass windows. This elegantly designed space showcases cultural items in 10 showcases, including lacquerware, pottery, metalwork, wood, bamboo and glass. Le Ciel provides a buffet selection from breakfast through to late evening. Throughout the day, guests have access to hot drinks, a wide array of beers, soft drinks, sakes and wines. A special breakfast, lunch and dinner selection is provided each day. After our arrival mid-afternoon, we enjoyed a colourful array of tea treats from the buffet of beautifully presented cakes and pastries.

We relaxed on the outdoor terrace that overlooks the garden. I was spoiled for choice with the excellent selection of teas, including my favourite matcha. My husband dozed off in the afternoon sun before he could finish his beer. That is the way to deal with jet lag. 

We returned to Le Ciel at 8 pm, where we enjoyed light snacks served in small Staub dishes: one with lamb in tomato sauce and another with roast vegetables. There was a buffet including marinated octopus, tiny toasts with foie gras pâté, cheese, salad, fresh vegetables, escabeche, smoked salmon, and the hotel’s signature croissant cube, which at night is topped with truffle. Prosecco was cooled in an ice bucket, and we toasted our stay with a chilled flute. For dessert, there were tiny tartelettes with chocolate and pistachio, chocolates, nuts and dried fruits.

YU, THE SPA

We re-energised with a visit to YU, THE SPA, which is complimentary for guests in suites and is available at an extra charge for those staying in other rooms. Here, five-star pampering is on offer. In addition to a beautiful spa treatment suite with a wide range of treatments, this is the only hotel in Japan to offer Spa by L’OCCITANE and features the Esthetic Salon Guerlain Paris for facials, body, and nail care.  For those who enjoy relaxing in water, there is a heated indoor swimming pool in a conservatory with a retractable glass roof, an indoor and outdoor jacuzzi, and an onsen (hot springs bath). Serious about working out? There is a fitness gym open 24 hours.  All share a lounge where guests can refresh, rehydrate and enjoy light snacks. The pool area opens onto an outdoor terrace, overlooking the garden. There are loungers inside and out, and everything needed for a relaxing few hours.

While my husband headed for a swim, I made straight for the onsen. One of the many joys of travelling in Japan is having access to the onsen (hot springs). Outside of the major cities, there are many onsen towns in Japan where hot springs are located, but in a city like Tokyo, the water has to be brought in. Hotel Chinzanso collects its water for the onsen from a hot spring resort, Ito in Shizuoka, the neighbouring prefecture. Hence, guests can enjoy all the benefits that the hot spring water brings with naturally occurring minerals and salts. After a swim and a half hour in the onsen – the water is very hot, so it is best to stay in for around 10 minutes, get out to cool down and then get back in – we returned to our room to find that the turn-down service had been carried out and our floral curtains drawn, making the suite really cosy. A good night’s sleep is almost guaranteed, I find, after a visit to the onsen, and it is also a great way to start the day: a soak before breakfast.

Dining

Hotel Chinzanso offers a range of options covering Japanese and Western cuisine across its eight restaurants and bars. The day begins with a choice of Japanese or Western breakfast. Miyuki restaurant hosts a set Japanese breakfast called shiosai. Guests are offered a choice of fresh juice or smoothies along with roasted tea to start. Each day, the dishes beautifully presented on a tray differed. On the first morning, we enjoyed grilled fish, pickles, rice porridge, miso soup with cockles, salad, mustard spinach with baby sardine, Japanese omelette, and grilled cod roe. It was such a healthy start to the day, packed with Omegas and fermented foods.  If you prefer a Western breakfast, Il Teatro, the hotel’s Italian restaurant, offers juices, eggs, muffins, ham, vegetables, smoked salmon and petit fours. They also offer an alternative breakfast with smoothies, chia pudding, salad, vegan cheese gratin, soy meat tomato sauce, saffron-flavoured poached eggs, muesli, and honey bread. Finally, you could opt to order in-room dining.

We were treated to an exciting lunch at Miyuki restaurant, which serves traditional and modern Japanese cuisine with a sushi counter and a teppanyaki counter as well as table service. Watching the chef prepare the vegetables, meat, fish and shellfish for cooking on the teppanyaki grill was a treat. While the chef began to cook the main courses, we were presented with beautiful starters, including iced fish in a jelly, a lacquered bowl of sea bream soup, grilled shiitakes, dried tomato, dill and nori, and finally, a platter of sashimi.

The chef prepared fish on the teppanyaki that was perfectly cooked. Wagyu beef was outstanding, served with large blocks of rock salt over which we passed our beef slices to season. An array of Japanese pickles was presented in a beautiful box. Once we had eaten the lobster grilled on the teppanyaki, we watched as the chef fried tofu with spinach and then garlic rice. Miso soup brought the main dishes to a close. For dessert, we enjoyed a fresh fruit salad in a beautiful gold leaf glass bowl. The entire meal was an example of seasonality, from the range of ingredients down to the choice of crockery and cutlery, which changes as the seasons evolve. The beauty of Japanese cuisine lies in these details and respect for nature and the cycle of the seasons.

There are another three Japanese restaurants tucked away in the garden –  UNAKIKU, an eel restaurant; Mokushundo, which specialises in ishiyaki (stone-grilled) cuisine where food is grilled on heated lava rocks from Mount Fuji, and Ryotei Kinsui, where luxury kaiseki (traditional multi-course) meals are served in private tatami rooms that overlook a pond. For guests who prefer Western cuisine, options include Il Teatro for Italian cuisine and The Bistro for a casual, all-day dining experience.  Guests can also enjoy Le Jardin, the hotel’s lobby lounge, where afternoon tea and evening cocktails are served overlooking the garden, as well as Le Marquis, the hotel’s main bar.

Many visitors begin their Japanese holiday in Tokyo, often arriving jetlagged after long-haul flights. The Hotel Chinzanso is the perfect haven for a few days of pampering, recovering, strolling through a magnificent garden, soaking in the hot spring bath, and enjoying a Spa treatment followed by a choice of restaurants for dinner. I found the hotel an oasis of calm, a peaceful environment in which to catch my breath before diving into the action Tokyo offers.

Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo  2 Chome-10-8 Sekiguchi, Bunkyo City, Tokyo 112-8680, Japan

For more, check our feature on Eating in Tokyo