Last Updated on June 7, 2026
A Fishy Tale at The Salt Room
4.5 out of 5.0 starsWhen I was a student in Brighton in the late 70s, if you wanted fish, it either had to be a chip shop or a trip to the much posher English’s. With my spiky hair, ripped PVC trousers and smelly sweater, I felt like a fish out of water at English’s, so fish and chips it was, unless my mum was paying! 45 years on, there’s big news for Brighton’s fish fans as the much-loved The Salt Room has just reopened, and we were very pleased to be the first press in to review.
With its year-round 60-cover seafront terrace and its fabulous view of the hustle and bustle of the seafront, a new bar and open kitchen bringing energy to the space,
The Salt Room felt like the perfect place to be on a buzzing Brighton Friday night. The refurbished restaurant now has a Floridian feel. There’s abundant potted greenery, terracotta tiles, wooden tables with rattan chairs and ceiling fans to keep you cool. Discrete disco beats don’t get in the way.
A new Executive Chef, Kim Woodward, is now in charge of the kitchen. Kim has a strong CV, having trained with Gordon Ramsay and becoming the first woman Head Chef at the Savoy Grill. You may have seen her on TV in MasterChef: The Professionals and Great British Menu. However, despite her classical background, Kim has kept The Salt Room’s gastronomic identity, built around cooking over the hot coals of an Argentinian Parrilla grill that takes pride of place in the kitchen.
After braving the Brighton traffic, we need a drink. The ripe pear notes of the Wiston Estate Blanc de Blanc from the Aperitifs list set us up for what was to become a seafood feast.
From the Raw and Cured section of the menu, we started with some flavoured oysters. The robust rocks were great appetisers. The Bloody Caesar dressing was spicy and herbal with lots of chopped parsley. The green apple, jalapeño and cucumber had less bite than I expected, with a welcome sweetness from the apple.
Seabass ceviche ‘cooked’ in a yuzu vinaigrette didn’t have the usual ceviche acidity. The addition of luscious English strawberries, the crunch of macadamia nuts, the saltiness of fish roe and a salsa verde coalesced to create a rich, satisfying plate.
Toasted rosemary focaccia was light and fluffy, and the accompanying dish of smooth extra-virgin olive oil was perfect for dipping.
The menu’s Hot and Cold choices offered some exciting options. A rich, creamy plate of whipped cod’s roe was studded with more roe and plated with dill oil and lashings of the herb, with a charming fish-bone-shaped pastry being a welcome addition. I loved the sweet-fleshed Brixham red mullet offset by Roma tomatoes and a smoked tarama.
We skipped some good-looking Garden and Pasta dishes and headed for the Cooked over Fire choices. Turbot is the king of fish, and grilled turbot is the House Classic at The Salt Room. The fish was delicious and a proper showstopper. Doused in garlic butter, the flesh was charred on the grill Basque-style, creating a rustic sense of luxury.
Our sides of fluffy, crisp triple-cooked chips and some soft and piquant dressed grilled peppers were exemplary.
We barely needed a dessert but managed to share the chocolate, almond and cherry parfait. The cool bitter chocolate notes combined with the crunch of the almonds and rich cherry compote was not too sweet and the perfect end to our meal.
It’s great to see The Salt Room back and thriving. If you’re on a family or work outing, out with friends or on a hot date and are in the mood for some top-notch seafood right by the sea, then it’s the place to go.
106 King’s Rd, Brighton, BN1 2FU
01273 929488
Looking for seafood restaurants in London? Check our feature on Ten of the Best Fish Restaurants
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