Last Updated on December 30, 2024
A Timeless Jewel in London’s Seafood Scene at Sheekey’s
4.0 out of 5.0 stars
Sheekey’s, as it is affectionately known, is the leading lady of London’s West End dining scene, having wined and dined generations of actors, theatregoers, politicians, revellers, and lovers in the heart of Theatreland.
This ever-popular fish restaurant’s history dates back to 1896. Prime minister Lord Salisbury, whose motto was “Whatever happens will be for the worse”, gave Josef Sheekey, a local fish merchant, a licence to serve fish and shellfish on the same site that the restaurant now inhabits. In the spirit of Noblesse Oblige, the deal allowed for Salisbury and his chums to have post-theatre dinners on the house.
The ruby-red facade of J. Sheekey promises a touch of theatre before you even step inside, and the interior doesn’t disappoint. It’s a masterclass in understated glamour, where the olive-green banquettes and polished wood panelling feel impeccably lived in without veering into anything remotely shabby. Black-and-white photographs of the famous and fabulous gaze down from the walls, lending a sense of storied history, while Art Deco light fittings cast a flattering glow over the oak floors and crisp white-linen tablecloths.
The low ceilings and maze of interconnected rooms create an intimate buzz, anchored by the central crustacean bar—a shimmering focal point of culinary indulgence. Jazz drifts softly in the background, completing the scene: a timeless haven for those seeking classic sophistication, with just the right dash of sparkle.
I began with a Lychee-tini, a delicate and elegant martini crafted from Grey Goose La Poire vodka, Sakura vermouth, and verjus, beautifully infused with the lychee’s sweet, floral essence.
Nothing beats a classic King Prawn & Avocado Cocktail, and J. Sheekey’s rendition is the gold standard. Generously doused in a gently spiced Marie Rose sauce, it’s a symphony of big, succulent prawns, creamy slabs of ripe avocado, and crisp, crunchy lettuce – a retro masterpiece reimagined with just the right touch of indulgence.
The Dressed Portland Crab is a dish of pure, unadulterated freshness. Sweet, flaky crab meat takes centre stage, complemented by the creamy softness of chopped egg and a bold, funky brown crab mayonnaise that adds depth without overpowering. It’s a lesson in simplicity done right -clean, satisfying, and timeless.
For wine, our fish dishes paired perfectly with a carafe of Gambellara Classico – dry, crisp and mineral with apple, and subtle peachy notes.
One of my favourite dishes is the ray wing, and J. Sheekey’s version is nothing short of fabulous. A satisfyingly meaty Cornish ray wing, pan-fried to golden perfection, arrives glistening in a decadent pool of caramelised brown butter, its nutty richness perfectly balanced by the bright, tangy kick of salty capers. Delicate yet bold, every bite is utterly delicious.
Just as indulgent is their Cornish Fish Stew – comforting and luxurious in equal measures. Brimming with tender salmon, sole, plump prawns, mussels, and flaky cod, it’s brought together with waxy Ratte potatoes and a generous dollop of garlicky mayonnaise that elevates this seaside classic to something truly special.
On the side, perfectly crisp golden chips and a fresh-as-can-be green salad. The latter, an invigorating mix of lettuce, peppery rocket, and vibrant watercress, all lightly dressed with a delicate white balsamic vinaigrette made a flawless accompaniment.
Finally, a blood orange and passion fruit sorbet -delicately sweet, beautifully tangy, and utterly refreshing. The perfect palate cleanser to round off the meal.
At London Unattached, we’re always on the hunt for the best fish restaurants in London, and J. Sheekey’s undoubtedly earns its place at the top. With its timeless charm, impeccable service, and exquisite seafood dishes, it’s a shining star in Theatreland – a must-visit for lovers of elegant, seafood-centric dining.
J.Sheekey
28-32 St Martin’s Court
London WC2N 4AL
020 7240 2565
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