Last Updated on September 16, 2025
Black Cod and Beyond: The Nobu Portman Square Experience
4.8 out of 5.0 starsWith its blend of Japanese tradition and contemporary luxury, Nobu has established itself as one of the world’s most recognisable hospitality and lifestyle brands. Co-founded by chef Nobuyuki Matsuhisa, actor Robert De Niro and producer Meir Teper, Nobu is celebrated for its pioneering fusion cuisine. The brand has since expanded into a global collection of restaurants and hotels, each renowned for minimalist elegance, exceptional service and a distinctive sense of style. We’ve tried a few of their restaurants over the years – from New York to Doha via London, Park Lane – so we were delighted to be invited along to the latest London outpost to review.
Nobu Portman Square opened in 2020, with much of its team transferring from the long-established Nobu Park Lane. Located within the Nobu Hotel, the restaurant occupies a classically elegant building with interiors by David Collins Studio. Dark, near-black teak wood forms geometric patterns across walls and ceilings, while stone-topped tables and understated chairs keep the space refined and restrained. Along the far wall, a sleek sushi counter and adjoining cocktail bar set the scene. The focus, however, is firmly on the food.
The omakase tasting menu (£125 per person) is the simplest way to experience the chef’s showcase dishes. Meaning I’ll leave it to you, omakase places the meal in the hands of the kitchen.
Our lunch began with salmon tartare topped with a generous spoon of caviar, served with a light wasabi dressing and a tiny Japanese wakamomo peach on the side, offered as a palate cleanser. These small, unripe peaches carry a tart flavour with hints of muscat grape and plum, their texture soft and delicate.
Next came sashimi salad, a plate of finely sliced tuna and yellowtail lightly seared and served on a bed of leafy salad greens. The fish was paired with the signature Matsuhisa Dressing, a savoury blend of onion, mustard, soy, rapeseed oil and water.
The assorted nigiri offered toro, whitefish, red mullet, and shrimp, each piece resting on perfectly seasoned rice and served with soy sauce, wasabi, and ginger.
Then, Nobu’s most celebrated dish, the black cod with miso. Created by Matsuhisa in Los Angeles in the 1980s, it remains one of the most-ordered dishes across the brand. The cod is marinated for several days in miso, sake and sugar, then roasted until the exterior caramelises to a glossy finish. The flesh is tender, almost melting, its balance of sweet and savoury flavours both comforting and refined. Presented wrapped in a single leaf, it more than lived up to its reputation.
Two bowls of toban yaki followed, piping hot and sizzling in their earthenware bowls. The beef version was a rich combination of thinly sliced meat and mushrooms, topped with enoki, broccoli and asparagus. The seafood option was equally generous, brimming with salmon, squid, prawn, tuna and scallop alongside seasonal vegetables.
A bowl of miso soup provided a final savoury note, its tofu, herbs and broth offering quiet comfort, before dessert arrived in a lacquered bento box.
A light chocolate mousse paired with matcha gelato made for a well-judged finale
To accompany the meal, we shared 300ml of Junmai Daiginjo cherry blossom sake, a slightly sweet and fragrant pour with notes of pear, apple, white flowers and citrus. Smooth and well-rounded, it carried enough acidity to complement each course.
Omakase is an ideal choice for diners who prefer guidance, and Nobu’s version captures the essence of the brand. Every dish was full-flavoured yet balanced, never heavy. Dining here is not simply about food; it is about engaging with Nobu as a global lifestyle brand that has redefined contemporary luxury.
Nobu Portman Square is for diners who want more than just a meal. It appeals to those who appreciate refined Japanese cooking with a contemporary twist, served in an atmosphere of understated luxury.
Regulars come for the consistency of Nobu’s classics, while first-time visitors are drawn by the chance to experience an international dining brand with a reputation for glamour. Whether it is a business dinner, a special occasion or simply the desire to immerse yourself in one of London’s most recognisable names in hospitality, this is a restaurant designed for those who expect both style and substance.
Nobu Hotel
22 Portman Square,
London W1H 7BG,
United Kingdom
Phone: +44 20 3988 5888
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