Last Updated on May 6, 2026
Arriving in Palermo – Travel Guide
Few travel moments rival that first encounter with a new city — the instant when its sounds, scents and pulse begin to unfold. Palermo, I soon discovered, makes that moment unforgettable. A short flight from London brings you to Falcone-Borsellino Airport, from where the drive into the city takes about 20 minutes. Palermo is a lively, historic and unapologetically gritty metropolis that seems to be in constant motion.
Ostensibly visiting to learn about Sicilian wines and meet some of the wine makers from Sicilia DOC, I found the opportunity to explore Palermo too tempting and decided to extend my stay by a few days. Staying in the historic centre, initially in a charming self-catering apartment and latterly in an elegant hotel, I had no need of a car for most of the short break.
Palermo itself is easy to navigate on foot and, if you do want a rest, it’s easy enough to book an Uber or minicab. And, it’s one of the best places I’ve found to invoke that little bit of Tolkienism – ‘Not all who wander are lost’.
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Palermo, a Mosaic of the Mediterranean
Palermo sits at the crossroads of cultures, with a history woven from centuries of conquest and cultural exchange. Founded by the Phoenicians and later ruled by the Romans, Byzantines and Arabs, it became one of the great cities of the medieval Mediterranean. Under Arab rule in the ninth century, Palermo thrived as a centre of learning and trade. At the same time, the later Norman kings transformed it into a dazzling capital where Arabic, Byzantine and Latin influences mingled, a legacy still visible in its mosaics, domes and palaces.
In the centuries that followed, Palermo passed through Spanish, Bourbon and eventually Italian hands, enduring periods of splendour and decline. Bombed heavily in the Second World War and scarred by Mafia violence, the city has reinvented itself in recent decades. Today, its restored architecture, vibrant markets and rich mix of cultures make Palermo a living monument to Sicily’s layered and resilient past.
From Markets to Monuments: Exploring Palermo on Foot
Rise early to explore Ballarò, the largest and best-known of Palermo’s food markets. It opens at 7.30 am, and although it doesn’t officially close until 8 pm, it’s best first thing in the morning. You’ll find a wealth of seasonal fruit and vegetables, fresh fish, cheeses and a variety of street foods. For me, it’s a great place to look for treats to take home – olive oil, jars of peppers, olives, artichoke hearts, herbs and spices.
You’ll find more types of courgette (zucchini) and aubergine (eggplant) than in any gardening catalogue, and if you happen to want to cook, there are plenty of options here. A smaller, vibrant market, Capo, is located just behind the Teatro Massimo. Or, for night owls, try Vucciria, a street food market that comes alive in the evenings. The perfect way to enjoy aperitivo, the street food is good enough that you may not want to eat dinner.
Palermo has over eighty churches and a wealth of religious sites worth visiting. An easy starting point is to look at ‘Il Circuito del Sacro’ – “The Route of the Sacred”. Most churches charge a small entrance fee to help with maintenance, but once you have a ticket marked with the Circuit’s name, you can enter other participating churches at a reduced cost. It is a simple and affordable way to see several of Palermo’s most interesting religious buildings.
Close to Quattro Canti (the Baroque Piazza Vigliena, at the intersection of Via Maqueda and Corso Vittorio Emanuele), in the centre of the old town, is Piazza Bellini, home to two UNESCO World Heritage Site churches that stand side by side. The Chiesa di San Cataldo, built in 1154, is known for its three red domes and its clean, simple lines. It is one of the best examples of Arab-Norman architecture in the city. Inside, the plain stone walls and quiet atmosphere give it a sense of calm that contrasts with the busy streets outside.
Next door is the Chiesa di Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio, also known as La Martorana. Dating from the 12th century, it is famous for its fine Byzantine mosaics that cover the interior. The gold backgrounds and intricate details show Palermo’s long connection to both Western and Eastern artistic traditions. Visiting both churches together gives a clear picture of how cultures blended in medieval Sicily.
From Quattro Canti, walking down Via Vittorio Emanuele towards the Cathedral, it is worth stopping at the Chiesa del Santissimo Salvatore. This Baroque church, with its circular interior and elaborate decoration, has undergone many alterations over the centuries. It now combines grandeur with a sense of history, making an interesting contrast with the earlier, more restrained Arab-Norman buildings nearby.
Although entrance to the Cattedrale di Palermo (Palermo Cathedral) is free, there is a small fee for access to the royal tombs, crypt, and terraces, which is well worth it for the sweeping city panorama. That too is part of Il Circuito del Sacro. It’s an unmissable stop on any visit to the city. Built in 1185 and shaped by centuries of change, it brings together Arab, Norman, Gothic and Baroque influences in one remarkable structure. Inside lie the tombs of Norman kings and emperors, while a climb to the roof offers expansive views over Palermo and the surrounding hills.
For those more interested in the secular, any Palermo travel guide will tell you that a visit to the Teatro Massimo on Piazza Verdi is one of Palermo’s finest landmarks and the largest opera house in Italy is a must. Opened in 1897, it reflects the city’s late-19th-century confidence and love of the arts. The grand Neoclassical façade, with its sweeping steps and bronze lions, leads to an elegant interior famed for its near-perfect acoustics. After a long restoration, the theatre reopened in 1997 and now hosts regular opera, ballet and classical concerts.
Even if you do not attend a performance, the guided tours are well worth taking and include the royal box, the auditorium, and the rooftop terrace, with panoramic views. Walking around the auditorium as the guide points out various seating options, you will learn more about Sicilian social history than you would from any guidebook and discover how the unique domed roof provides natural air conditioning, too. Film buffs may well recognise the theatre – it is best known as the setting for the final scenes of The Godfather Part III (1990).
The Norman Palace and Palatine Chapel are also nearby. We’ve already covered the fine mosaics of the Palatine Chapel, but there’s more to see in this striking building.
Originally built in the 9th century by the Arabs, it was extended by the Normans and became the royal residence for the Kings of Sicily. With Arab, Norman and Baroque elements, it’s the perfect example of the melting pot of cultures that makes Palermo so unique. There are grand courtyards, historic halls and of course, the famous Palatine Chapel that we’ve already written about. It is part of Palermo’s Arab-Norman UNESCO World Heritage site and is worth spending a full morning or afternoon exploring.
Finally, do visit the Orto Botanico di Palermo (the Botanical Gardens). Founded in 1789, it is one of Europe’s oldest botanical gardens and a welcome escape from the city’s busy streets.
Set near the seafront on Via Lincoln, the ten-hectare site takes about an hour to walk around. It is home to plants from every continent, including towering palms, cacti and the giant Ficus macrophylla with its dramatic roots.
Shaded paths, ponds and neoclassical pavilions make it a calm and pleasant place to wander, offering a glimpse of Palermo’s long tradition of science and discovery – and there’s a charming café where you can enjoy a cold drink, an espresso and a snack.
Beyond the City
While Palermo itself is a busy metropolis, the surrounding countryside offers plenty to see and do. Monreale, on the outskirts of the city, is an easy bus or cab ride away and is best known for its magnificent Norman cathedral, one of Sicily’s UNESCO World Heritage sites. Built in the 12th century, the Cathedral of Santa Maria Nuova is famous for its golden Byzantine mosaics covering its walls and ceilings. The adjoining cloister, with its carved columns and peaceful garden, is equally impressive. The town itself offers lovely views of the valley and makes an easy, rewarding half-day trip from Palermo.
The coast of Northern Sicily is scattered with pretty seaside towns. From nearby Mondello with its stunning white sand beaches to Cefalu, a medieval seaside town that’s an easy train journey from Palermo, there are plenty of destinations within an hour of the city. Visiting Castellammare del Golfo was an opportunity to relax on the sandy, uncrowded beach and, for some brave souls, to take a dip in the sea. With more time, it would have been worth exploring the pretty harbour and Norman-era castle.
Inland, the stunning ancient theatre and temple of Segesta are about an hour’s drive from Palermo. Founded by the Elymians, an ancient people of western Sicily, it is one of Sicily’s most impressive archaeological locations. The temple, built in the 5th century BC, was never finished, while the nearby Greek theatre carved into Mount Barbaro overlooks the valley and is still used for open-air performances in summer.
Together they offer a memorable glimpse of Sicily’s classical past in a beautiful natural setting. We travelled there by minibus as part of our wine tour, but if you don’t have your own transport, there are regular coaches from Palermo and many private tours to the site.
Eating and Drinking in Palermo
It’s safe to say you are unlikely to go hungry in Palermo. The streets are lined with small bars and cafés selling everything from arancini and panelle to gelato and canoli. There are plenty of spots where you can enjoy a glass of wine, a cocktail or a beer.
Our own favourites from this trip, all centrally located in the Old Town, are:
Ristorante Ferro (@ristoranteferro on Instagram). Here you can enjoy a casual fine-dining experience at a thoroughly reasonable price; the dishes are elevated versions of traditional Sicilian food, and we enjoyed sitting outside on the peaceful terrace, just off Via Maqueda.
Piazza S.Onofrio N 42, Palermo, Italy 90134
No visit to this part of Italy, just a stone’s throw from Naples, would be complete without a taste of pizza. There are plenty to choose from in Palermo, but for a great example of artisan pizza, in a vibrant and fun setting, in the heart of the historic centre, I can recommend Mastunicola Pizzeria.
Quid gusto siciliano is an elegant restaurant a stone’s throw from the Orto Botanico, where the outdoor terrace overlooks Giardino Garibaldi, a pretty garden square. We loved our late lunch here and can recommend the elevated street food dishes and the fabulous fish.
Piazza Marina, 52, 90133 Palermo, PA, Italy
Enotequa was a spot we seemed to return to with great regularity. There’s seating out on the street, which was always packed, while inside, it remained cosy but almost empty! Enotequa is somewhere for a few drinks before dinner or, if you just don’t want too much to eat, their own menu of cured meats, cheeses, breads, olives and dips makes excellent grazing food.
Instagram @enotequa, you find it at 301 Via Maqueda, Palermo,
Where to stay – Palermo Travel Guide Recommendations
We’ve already written about a unique ‘home museum’, La Bella Palermo. If you’re travelling with a group, it’s worth exploring this very special residential option.
For solo travellers, couples or smaller groups, self-catering options can be very appealing. We were lucky to stay in the heart of the old town in a charming, well-managed, and clean two-double-bedroom apartment. Highly recommended, we had excellent air conditioning, a central living room with a full kitchen, a well-equipped bathroom and two pleasant bedrooms.
Two small balconies meant we could spend the evenings, as every Sicilian seemed to do, sitting and watching the world go by.
Our hosts were exceptionally kind, providing airport transfers and offering extended tours had we wanted them. If you are looking for self-catering accommodation in Palermo, this one ticks every box for us.
I also stayed at the Palazzo Liberty Unique Hotel, a charming Italian Art Nouveau (Liberty style is the Italian term for their own Art Nouveau variant) building with contemporary fixtures and fittings. Another great location, the Palazzo Liberty is on the edge of the historic centre, just a few minutes’ walk from Teatro Massimo.
Breakfast was a real highlight here, with excellent local produce and, of course, the best coffee imaginable, and the rooms were peaceful and comfortable, despite the hotel’s central location.
The Perfect Palermo
Palermo is a city that defies easy definition. It is noisy and chaotic yet full of grace, its layers of history visible at every turn. The mix of cultures, the warmth of its people and the rhythm of daily life make it an endlessly fascinating place to explore. One moment you are admiring Byzantine mosaics, the next you are sipping espresso in a sunlit square, wandering through a market alive with sound and colour or watching a religious procession through the streets.
Whether you come to explore the wines of Sicilia DOC, the fantastic street food, the art, the architecture, or just to breathe in the atmosphere, Palermo rewards those who take time to look beneath the surface. It is a city that feels lived-in and real, where history and modern life coexist in a way that few places manage. For me, it was not just a destination but an experience that lingered long after I had left.
Useful Information about Palermo
Summer in Palermo regularly sees temperatures rise to an unforgiving 30 °C and above. It’s pleasantly warm from late September often through till early November, and Spring starts from the middle of March.
Many hotels and self-catering accommodations will offer airport transfers. We found these to be cheaper than the options available at the airport itself.
Most of Palermo can be explored on foot. If you prefer to order a cab, you may need some patience, but Uber does work here. Driving here is not for beginners. Locals seem to treat traffic lights as suggestions and lanes as polite fictions — best to let someone else take the wheel. The city’s maze of narrow streets demands a level of spatial awareness that makes even riding a Vespa seem ambitious. For the majority of visitors, leaving the driving to someone else will be the wiser choice.
If you are visiting religious sites or churches, please dress modestly. Women should carry a shawl or large scarf to cover bare shoulders/cleavage, and ideally should wear a skirt, trousers or shorts that cover the knees.
I stayed at the Futtitinni Home Casamia self-catering apartment in the heart of the historic centre of Palermo
Piazza Sant’Onofrio, 21, 90134 Palermo, PA, Italy
+393391540931
Contact Rita and Ezio for more information on Ignazio.gua@gmail.com
I also stayed at the 4-star Palazzo Liberty Unique Hotel
Via Roma, 391, 90139 Palermo, PA, Italy
Both are highly recommended..
There are regular direct flights to Palermo from various UK airports, including London Gatwick and Heathrow, taking around three hours.
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