Last Updated on January 15, 2025
Looking for London by the Sea? Try Parsons in Covent Garden
4.5 out of 5.0 starsIf you love good fish restaurants, London is an excellent place to indulge your passion. From historic fish restaurants to newer openings, there are plenty of places to try everything from classic fish and chips to lobster and more. While Parsons is a relative newcomer, having opened in 2017, it has a retro feel. It reminded us of the old Wheeler’s oyster bars with vintage tiles, dark bentwood chairs, bottle green leather banquettes and raised marble bar seating.
We particularly loved the elevated coat hoop above the door and the quirky table at the back in its own little nook. This place could easily have been around for a hundred years or more.
Visitors to London may be curious why there’s such a focus on fish in the Capital. The pescatarian culinary history of London dates back to ancient times when early settlers relied on the Thames for fish – salmon, eel and sturgeon for example. By medieval times, fishing rights along the Thames were regulated, with exclusive rights granted to influential people. And, by then fish was a significant part of diet, especially during periods of religious fasting. But, the wealth of seafood we enjoy today is arguably largely due to the establishment of Billingsgate Market in the 16th century, with the fish sold there providing for a growing population. Originally located near London Bridge, fishing boats in the early days used to deliver directly to the market, helping establish it as a major hub for fish trade in London. In turn, a wealth of seafood restaurants popped up in the 19th Century. Sweetings and Wiltons are known as the oldest established fish restaurants, while Scott’s, one of London’s most iconic seafood restaurants, was established as an oyster warehouse in Haymarket in 1851. J Sheekey followed in 1896.
Parsons, meanwhile, is the brainchild of the owners of The 10 Cases across the road. Here, instead of wine, Will and Ian have focussed on fish and created a fun restaurant where you can enjoy everything from a few oysters through to a fabulous roast turbot – or as we did, indulge in both! That’s not to say there isn’t an excellent wine list though, this time with a focus on whites that will pair with the fish. And there are a few things on the dessert list at the end to tempt you after a relatively healthy meal!
To drink we picked a 500ml serving of a deliciously lemony Godello Quinta da Ladeira which worked brilliantly with our main course and which I’d happily have enjoyed as an aperitif. It was served perfectly chilled and was an excellent choice for a light (ish) lunch.
Oysters were not to be missed – the menu had three Jersey rocks for just £5 – which is less than I pay at my local market. Meaty and clean there was nothing to complain about here. In the interest of research, we ordered a French Bodeuse Rock Oyster for £3.30 which my dining companion and pescatarian expert told me had a subtle hint of sweetness.
Potted shrimp croquettes were light and creamy on the inside with just a hint of mace and chilli. A crisp shell added textural contrast to this perfect post-oyster indulgence.
I love ordering a whole fish to share and when Turbot is on the menu, it’s hard to resist. Known as the ‘King of the Sea’, it has a delicate texture and superb flavour. I’m something of a coward in the kitchen and this fish is expensive – so I’d rather leave it to experts to cook. Here, perfectly roasted, it was served with a sprinkling of samphire and a mussel beurre blanc. The filleting was expertly carried out by the staff at Parsons, leaving us free to feast without bones or tears.
Right now, I’m experimenting at home with beurre blanc. You make it by reducing white wine with shallots and then gradually whisking in knobs of butter. It’s a sauce that is best served freshly made and that, if you get it wrong by adding in too much butter, overheating or letting it stand for too long, will split. This one was good enough to drink with a hint of mussel against the deliciously creamy butteriness.
For a side dish, we ordered anchovy and fennel dauphinoise, which came with a scattering of breadcrumbs on top to mop up the sauce. My companion described it as ‘fishy comfort food’ which, I suspect means he loved it (especially as he ate about two-thirds of it). Fennel has a light aniseed flavour and pairs beautifully with anchovy. I’ll be trying to make my own version of this at home. I might just have to go back to Parsons to try theirs again so I can check the details.
Dessert was a shared a Granny Smith apple crumble, with vanilla ice. Generous enough to be plenty for two it didn’t stop us spying enviously at next door’s Welsh rarebit which would have been a step too far in indulgence this time.
This place works for me on so many levels. I’ll happily stop by Parsons for oysters and wine – and I’d come here to meet friends for a full meal. The little nook at the back would be the perfect date location and, during the summer I suspect the terrace is an excellent place to chill. Now I just need an excuse.
Parsons London,
39 Endell Street,
Covent Garden
London WC2H 9BA
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